Bonded beam or not?

This has been hangin’ in there for 25 years on the beach. I see the lags and then the glue and nailing. I don’t see an issue, but the customer asked me to ask you guys as a piece of mind.




His (and now my) concern is that the notch is too narrow and the load is only on one 2x. I was taught that the beam is the carrier and sitting on the ledge is fine, am I wrong? If not, how do I explain it in terms that I don’t know. If I am wrong, I know how to explain that, I have practice.. :laughing:

A proper 'built-up beam is considered “one piece”, and only requires 1-1/2 inch contact (minimum) with the ledge.

I’m more concerned with the construction of that sub-floor material (OSB, aka. insta-mulch)!!

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Thanks, and thanks again for the proper terminology so I can explain it better. That OSB is not the sub-floor, it is beneath the joists and I can only surmise there is damp insulation above it and below the sub-floor. This is in NW FL and the humidity doesn’t respect building materials very much.

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I agree with @jjonas

OSB should not be used at the exterior for an extended period of time. I do not believe painting it changes this. I have no idea if the floor insulation is wet or reason to consider that it is or isn’t. Is it common for floor insulation to become saturated?

https://osb.westfraser.com/blog/exterior-and-exposure-1-ratings-explained/

Afternoon, Kerry. Hope to find you well.
Sorry for the edit.

May I ask, what are we looking at? An attached second story walkout deck or balcony?

I would not refer to the beam as Bond-beam. A bond-beam refers to a masonry horizontal member, fully grouted element within a masonry wall, typically reinforced with steel bars, that provides structural support and continuity to the wall.

I see some suspect components and condition.
To myself, those site manufactured lumber built-up beams appear to be 2" x 10" finished lumber. Take of a 1/2" in the finishing process and you are left with 1-1/2" of material per length of joist x 2 pieces creating a beam.
Missing floor joists unless they are sandwiched between the sheathing or missing.
Footing, Column, Beam, Joist, Sheathing.

My opinion, there is not enough notched out wood surface area in the wood columns to bear live and dead forces from the weight of built up beams and decking above. Column notches may crack underneath from the weight from live and dead load up above.
1-1/2" of material is required for bearing. As well, the beams are not supported in the center or on areas near to mechanical connections. As in photo #1.

Appears to me several columns are leaning/rotating.
I see no blocking or bracing to prevent racking.
No footing.
No floor joists
Is the OSB sheathing exterior grade?

Let hear what others have to say.

Thanks for sharing!

Sorry for the edit all.

I refer clients and contractors to Design for Code Compliance with my “numerous issues” deck narration. Look at page 6 and 10 for to beam size and method of supporting the beam with a post. There is a Simpson Strong Tie hardware that can be utilized for improperly supported beams. There is also similar decorative support hardware available for the same use.

That beam/post support would make it onto my report because the full width of the beam is not bearing directly on the support post. It does appear to be functioning and not failing, so in terms of function, it is working right now.

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I agree with @msenty Mike’s assessment.

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I’m no expert when it comes to inspecting houses on stilts, but that certainly doesn’t look right, in my mind those stilts should be carrying the load, all of the load, not the through bolts, but then again it’s obviously still going strong after 25 years.

If you’re not sure, recommend an SE for further evaluation, after all, those stilts are holding up the entire house.