Originally Posted By: vdisciullo This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I have an investor buddy who buys alot of run down properties and sells them. I was checking out the attic in one and came across what I think could be a problem. there was a drop down attic stairs unit installed in the center of a bedroom??? They did not frame the unit between the trusses but instead completely cut through the bottom chord on one truss. House was built in 1960. The trusses are 2x4 Fink style 2 feet on center with plywood gussets. I told him he might consult someone with a structural background to see the best way to go about fixing it but I thought I would give the bb a try. Also, the roof is not sagging near that truss but the attics stairs unit is sagging and the frame has broke through the sheet rock at one corner. Any thoughts are much appreciated!
Originally Posted By: ckratzer This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
V.
Before any trusses are cut or altered a structual engineer must be consulted.
I’m not an engineer but I am a builder.It’s difficult to say how to fix it without seeing it.You may not be seeing any subsuquent problems yet but I’d be guessing the hide-a-stair was added much later than the 60’s so there hasn’t been enough time for the truss to do what there going to do in terms of sagging.
Call an engineer or many times even an architect can help.Personally I would do this before making the repair.
Originally Posted By: vdisciullo This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Mark,
That's kind of what I was thinking. Definately lose the stairs. There really isn't a reason for them anyway because the storage above is minimal. I would just cut in a hatch in a closet. As far a sistering, I understand, but a whole 4 ft section of the bottom chord is gone. Would putting a new piece in do the job or because the truss was cut at a very integral part of the truss is there irreversable damage done to the structural integrity. I guess what Im trying to get at is I think sistering or some version of would work but I wasn't quite sure because of where exactly the truss was cut. Also, I forgot to mention that a wall straddles the house perpendicular to the truss and I could probably lay a rafter from the outside load bearing wall to the middle wall with a purlin to the peak although it really isn't a load bearing wall in the middle and the rafter would lay over a door. What do you think??
Originally Posted By: cbuell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
technically, repairs to the trusses should be engineered just as much as engineering required to alter them in the first place. Also, were the trusses designed for storage loads—most are not.
Originally Posted By: Mark Dudley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Here’s what I would do…
Fit a 4' piece of replacement lumber in the cut out section, then place another piece 8' long (centered with the 4' piece), so that you have 2' extending past the joint and nail it in place with some 16d framing nails (nail gun works best for this), you could put another 8' piece on the other side as well, or just use some truss plates.
Was a vertical piece of the truss cut out when the 4' section was taken? If not, I think the repair outlined above would be sufficient to replace the horizontal loading the truss would have been supporting.
Originally Posted By: bking This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Be careful with “truss plates”. Those at HD and Lowes are mending plates and not for trusses. Truss plates are approved for use only by licensed truss builders and probablt not even available via retail. Real truss plates have much longer prongs and are installed with machines not hammers.
Originally Posted By: vdisciullo This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Those mending plates even say NOT FOR TRUSSES on them. In addition, real truss plates are installed with extreme pressure from the factory. Those mending plates are probably ok for a little storage shed but that is about it.
Originally Posted By: Mark Dudley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The other side of the chord would have a 2x4 on it. Using a ‘mending plate’ on the side then seems appropriate.
Don't want to use those, then do what the original builders did and cut some out of plywood or osb or just nail another 2x4 on the other side as suggested.
I've used those plates on small projects, but I always nail then on with real nails, the teeth aren't long enough to do much of anything.
Nailed on they are pretty strong, held up through Ivan, and 3 trusses together on a 12' span would hold a cars weight (been there done that).