Originally Posted By: gortiz This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I inspected a new construction house yesterday and need some help. The brick on the exterior wall was not flush with the foundation. I found the brick to be about 1 inch off set from the foundation. Should this be called as in need of repair.
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Remove the spaces in your photo file name (I use underscores ’ _ ’ for spaces) then upload the file with the new name.
The brick should be fully bedded, i.e., the bottom should be fully set in mortar, and the only way to do that is to have something fully under it, like the foundation.
Originally Posted By: dbowers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
We use mostly basements in my area (Kansas City). About half the time the builder will have a brick ledge and the brick will sit most of the way on the foundation (not all, but most) - the other half the time the brick will overhang the foundation by an inch or so. In 25 years I’ve never seen this be a problem. Unless it was causing a problem it would not be noted.
Originally Posted By: rhinck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Don’t call this out as need of repairs. Seldom will you see the brick veneer completely supported at the brick ledge. When, and not if, the the brick overhangs the ledge the mason shold apply a “coping” of mortar to keep frost heave from catching on the edge.
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
At this point, and I see very little brick, almost all construction down here is concrete block, about their only choice is to chip off the mortar from the bottom, install a steel angle bolted to the foundation about 3/8" or so (the thickness of the mortar joints) below the bottom of the first course of brick, drive some wedges between the brick and the steel angle to force the angle down tight, mortar that joint up except for at the wedges. After the mortar sets up, remove the wedges and point those voids up.
If the steel angle is not forced down tightly before the mortar is applied, then the steel is really not supporting the brick above. The steel angle will "catch the brick" when the brick cracks or tips, but the steel angle is not be "supporting the brick" if not done tightly.
Originally Posted By: rsonneson This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
My understanding is the brick ledge job is to support vertical pressure. The wll ties that are installed all over the wall is what ties the brick veneer to the wall of the house. Most brick ledges in the midwest are 3 1/2" deep and if a brick has more than that depth they will protrude past brick ledge. I really do not see that as a problem.
Originally Posted By: jpope This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Brick “veneer” is not allowed to bear any load (other than its own weight). The wall ties are required to be spaced no more than 24" vert and horz. The entire base of the brick (5-1/2" max) is required to be supported by the foundation.
Is this how it's always done? Of course not.
Brick "construction" is different but certainly requires full bearing on its footing.
-- Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
rsonneson wrote:
Most brick ledges in the midwest are 3 1/2" deep and if a brick has more than that depth they will protrude past brick ledge.
Hopefully, then, they use brick no more than 3 1/2" deep.
Quote:
I really do not see that as a problem.
Is a truss with half it proper bearing also not a problem?
Is a block wall with the block overhanging the foundation also not a problem?
Is ...
I could go on and on, but if the above items are "not a problem", then you must have a lot of structures with "no problems" in your area. Down here, we "have problems". Wish I worked in an area with "no problems".
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jpope wrote:
Susan wrote:
The brick ledge should also be wide enough to not only support the brick but a typical 1" air gap as well.
This is true ![icon_wink.gif](upload://ssT9V5t45yjlgXqiFRXL04eXtqw.gif)
Yep.
Too concentrated on trying to get it across that the entire brick needs to be supported that I forgot about mentioning you also had to allow for the 1" air gap.
Know what? Maybe that is what happened there - builder says 'I need a brick ledge on this foundation because this house gets brick veneer.' Guy forming foundation says 'How wide do it make the brick ledge?' Builder says 'I don't know, I think some sample brick was dropped off over at the office.' Foundation guy goes over there, measures the brick, and builds the ledge that wide.
Guess how the mason installs the 1" air gap? By pushing the brick out over the edge of the brick ledge. Which is the worse option? No air gap or brick overhanging foundation? No air gap. The only fix for that is to take the brick down and re-lay the wall up. The overhang can be corrected rather easily (one way is how I described above).
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
phinsperger wrote:
Up here it is permitted it is permitted to overhang up to 1"
9.20.12.2. (1) Cavity walls of greater thickness than the foundation wall on which they rest shall not be corbelled but may project 25 mm over the outer face of the foundation wall disregarding parging
Paul,
Appears as though that is not referring to brick veneer, as it states "cavity walls".
When laying up brick walls, you have solid walls, cavity walls, and grouted walls.
All "walls" are different from "veneer".
However, if they allow cavity walls to overhang, they may also allow brick veneer to overhang (in another section of the code). You'd need to check on that.
Originally Posted By: phinsperger This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
resting on a bearing support shall not project more than 25 mm beyond the supporting base where the veneer is at least 90 mm thick, and 12 mm beyond the supporting base where the veneer is less than 90 mm thick.
Originally Posted By: Brian A. Goodman This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The illustrations Jeff posted clearly show less than full bearing. Paul’s code quote seems to back that up. Jerry’s examples about trusses and cement block walls refer to structural members, not veneer. I wouldn’t write it up.
Originally Posted By: jremas This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I am glad I could share this information to clear up any misconceptions. As always, consult with your local code official. He/she might have a bug up their a$$ about something or another.
gotta go, just stoppe in the office between inspections and lunch awaits.....
--
Jeff Remas
REMAS Inspections, Inc.
Northeastern PA & the Poconos
www.NEPAinspector.com