Did inspection today on new build, what type of transition flashing is required at these areas? Thanks
It should extend past the brick.
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So the flashing is correct but the gaps of missing mortar are the issue? The flashing seems short but its not? Thanks for the insight on this.
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Brian, the flashing shown is typical in my area. However, @mgratton makes a good point because that ledge has negative slope.
Here is a cement fiber manufacturer detail. There is a difference, I missed the negative slope at first glance.
I would recommend a flashing correction.
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I don’t always get hung on whether or not it extends past the brick if the bricks are beveled/sloped. I definitely write it up when it has negative slope. When that’s the case it would actually be better if the flashing weren’t even installed. At least then the water has a 50/50 chance of running the right direction.
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It can be done either way. The flashing should extend and lap down the face of the brick for a foolproof installation. However, this way it will look bad aesthetically. A shorter partial lap above the brick also works, if whoever was doing it remembered to caulk between the flashing and the brick. This way, wind-driven rain can also be partially blocked out.
What I think will be problematic about that setup, the top course sailor brick pattern. Typically siding terminates atop a sill or coping. The sill or coping slopes away from the building allowing water to move away from the intersection. Under the sill or coping is a capillary break to prevent water from defying gravity and returning upstream.
In this case, every 3rd solder brick bottom kicks out at the bottom, also corbeled, but the top of the soldier brick leaning inwards toward the envelope. Water is driven into the siding/masonry intersection. Water will pool as long as it rains and remain atop that area until the water evaporates. Poor planning.