Build A House (am) (an)

Beginning to see signs of structural components we might inspect at a typical residence.That threaded rod(is this the correct term?)has a lot of responsibility holding the sill plate in position.(not in place yet)

Bob, down here we don’t have to dig holes to get started unless we just want to.:mrgreen:

Slabs are no fun with no place to bury the bodies.

Those are anchor bolts, Bob and they are usually spaced at 4-6’ and one foot from corners and typically 1/2" x 8" or 12" and galvanized so they will not corrode from the pressure treated lumber.

Was a perimeter drain installed under all that stone? Just wondering where all the water off the two roofs is going to go.

Marcel :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

I was wondering the same thing?
In my area we can’t pass code inspection without it.
I’m also wondering about a sump pit which is also required in a full basement in my area.
I see so many questions on this board about drain tile ,or perimeter drains,I think a great service would have been done to show this important step.


Hi Cheremie…no past tense, as we will get there.Good question tho.

Some info on the inspection process would be interesting

Hey Bob,
Great Post! I have been following this series, good job.
A couple of additional notes:
In Illinois you need a minimum of 2 anchor bolts per sill plate, spaced no more than 4’ apart and each anchor bolt needs a washer of appropriate size and a hardened nut. The sill plate cannot come in contact with the concrete, so a sill sealer should be used and the sill plate needs to be treated wood.
A drain tile needs to be installed around the perimeter of the exterior footing and cannot discharge into the public sewer system.
In your pictures you have shown “green” concrete. Make sure they allow the concrete at least 2 weeks to cure before back fill. It is recommended to not backfill until the floor system is installed to give the foundation walls lateral support.
Where is the rough-in for the water main?
I don’t see any beam pockets, what is the span of the floor system?
Was there a drain installed in the window well?

I think he was referring to the “Snap-ties” that have already been removed. . .

That threaded rod(is this the correct term?)has a lot of responsibility holding the sill plate in position.(not in place yet)

Well, maybe I am reading this wrong Jeff.

Marcel :smiley:

Down here, Bob, we just gut’em and put 'em in the crawlspace. The possums take care of the rest.:mrgreen:

On a more serious note, it’s great what you are doing. In the best spirit of NACHI!! (despite what anybody says about us!)

International Residential Code does not require foundation drains except where soil conditions create conditions where they become necessary.

Drains do not have to be in the form of ‘drain tiles’ but can be in the form of a sloped trench.

Gutters should never be tied into the foundation drains. You want to keep water away from the foundation, not add water to the foundation.

Spouts need to be directed away from the house at the surface of the grade.

But the IRC does not even require gutters and spouts on any house excpet for flat roofs that cannot drain themselves over the roof edge.

I agree Pete comments will determine the direction of discussion.
So far it has been stuff affecting structure that gets buried and out of sight,yet affects the other componants we do inspect.
Need to find a good way to tie it all together.The sill plate will be a good start as the next post should provide.

Hi Robert…Explain green concrete.
Un fortunatly in this area we often have sumps dumped into the sewers
We have something around here called deep tunnel which seems to not be all that great.

Hi Jimmy…We all know that insults and complaints are proportional to the threat level a certain other organization feels.
It is called insecurity.

Green Concrete. Once concrete is poured and becomes stiff enough to remove the forms, as seen in your pictures, it still has not reached its full structrual strength. Concrete takes between 45 to 90 days to become strong or cure,( at least strong enough to even think about back filling ) depending on the tempature and the moisture content of the air. It also depends on the mix of the concrete. Was a sump test performed? Concrete srinks as it dries, especially on long runs of foundation walls and this is usually when a crack will appear. If you backfill too soon the pressure of the soild will aid in the cracking and can even bow the walls inward. As a general rule of thumb, the slower the concrete dries the stronger it will be once fully cured.

Forget the green concrete…I want some of that green grass…!! :twisted:

I think they call that Mexican Home Grown…

Hey Bob, just thought I would check in to see how your build is going.

My frame is done, rough electrical is done and the siding, windows and doors are being delivered Monday.

Plan is to have the rough frame/electrical inspection done as soon as we put the doors and windows in, then install the insulation, then 3rd inspection, then finish the job.

PS does anyone know what’s wrong with my plan or schedule???