BX and ungrounded receptacles

Originally Posted By: jremas
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OK, let’s stop beating the double tap to death so here is a new topic.


A home has a recently replaced main panel. There is a ground rod outside, a ground to the water system with a bonding jumper on the water main and 20 circuit breakers. Only 15 of them are used and 10 of the circuits are older style bx cable with no ground. Most of the receptacles are 2 wire ungrounded and the grounded receptacles are check good with proper ground.

Would anyone write up the 2 wire receptacles? If so, what would you write and WHY?

There, now take this an beat it for a couple of weeks.


--


Jeff Remas
REMAS Inspections, Inc.
Northeastern PA & the Poconos
www.NEPAinspector.com

570-362-1598

Originally Posted By: jmyers
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Jeff,


If I am not mistaken you can not use the casing of BX cable as an equipment grounding conductor. ![icon_biggrin.gif](upload://iKNGSw3qcRIEmXySa8gItY6Gczg.gif)

I would certainly verify that information with a qualified sparky before I went and wrote it into the report.

Joe Myers


Originally Posted By: psabados
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Jeff,


I would also confirm the correct Ga. of feeder conductors, condition of meter box, mast and weather head. I would ID the main size, number of older BX circuits and number of new. I would attempt to locate area's where the new circuits were installed. If, of course, the new circuits are located in hazard area's they would be checked for GFCI and noted

The report would indicate that the main electrical circuit breaker panel has been upgraded, with all the pertinent information gathered above.

Next, in the outlet portion of this section, "Many(if I don't know the exact number) two prong (ungrounded) wall outlets were observed (in what rooms) Standard at the time of installation. Eventual upgrading may be desirable".

Area's in the dwelling that have not had GFCI protection installed would also be recommended.

These statements would also be included in a Suggested Upgrades Section. With all repairs or alterations being performed by a Qualified Licensed Electrician.

Photo's also taken and inserted into report for back-up and future reference if required.

If the BX looks like its been overheated or stressed then call for further investigation by Sparky

Paul Sabados
Accu-Pro Home Inspections
Olathe, Ks


Originally Posted By: jremas
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OK Paul, more information than I was looking for but the bottom line is that you would note it and state that an upgrade may be desireable. OK Thanks.


Joe, good catch on the 3 prong grounded receptacles. Although the casing cannot be used as an equipment ground, it often is.

Still, what is everyones take on this subject??


--


Jeff Remas
REMAS Inspections, Inc.
Northeastern PA & the Poconos
www.NEPAinspector.com

570-362-1598

Originally Posted By: dbush
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Quote from a report I did yesterday: "There are several outlets, that were visible (because it was an EXTREMELY occupied house), that were ungrounded. This is typical in older homes, however, it should be considered for upgrading to 3 prong grounded outlets and wiring.



Dave Bush


MAB Member


"LIFE'S TOUGH, WEAR A HELMET"

Originally Posted By: jmcginnis
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Jeff…


I would take out the BX and install all Knob and Tube…


JUST KIDDINGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!! icon_biggrin.gif icon_biggrin.gif icon_biggrin.gif


Originally Posted By: Dennis Bozek
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I refuse to respond to this topic because I already beat it to death over at Inspection News icon_lol.gif icon_lol.gif icon_lol.gif



This information has been edited and reviewed for errors by your favorite resident sparky.

Originally Posted By: roconnor
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BX cable has some issues. A real big issue with the BX cable is corrosion, particularly in wet/damp areas like basements. I understand a short could heat up the casing like a soldering iron under the right (or wrong) circumstances due to the increased resistance from the corrosion. I would flag it if there is corrosion.


Also, did you check to see if the boxes were grounded? Should be with the BX cable. Because you know Harry Homeowner is gonna come along with a 3-prong adapter with the ground lead attached to the faceplate screw. ZAP if he is grounded and there is a ground-fault without the box grounded ... ![icon_eek.gif](upload://yuxgmvDDEGIQPAyP9sRnK0D0CCY.gif)

Also particularly important for all the outlets in wet/damp locations (kitchen, bathroom, basement, garage, exterior) to be GFCI on these 2-wire circuits (red flag to me) because of the potential for ground fault shock.

And I agree the report should have something like "consider having an electrician upgrade all old style 2-prong outlets to more modern 3-prong grounded outlets, and install GFCI outlets where recommended"


--
Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee

I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong

Originally Posted By: roconnor
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P.S. Dennis ? we will suck you into this one eventually ? icon_lol.gif … A sparky told me to check the ground on the 2-prong outlets with my little GB plug-in tester and a 3-prong adapter ? just like Harry Homeowner would do … what do ya think?


(Okay ... I know about the better testers that will pick up on a "bootleg ground" on these older systems ... ya just have to be careful when ya see 3-prong outlets on a 2-wire system that there is no bootleg wire from the neutral to ground screw on the outlet).


--
Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee

I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong

Originally Posted By: Dennis Bozek
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icon_mrgreen.gif


Ok ok ok...here I go

I feel you can stick all sorts of testing equipment into a outlet to determine if it is grounded or not and probably most will give you such a wide variety of results you are going to have to open the thing up anyway. So why go through all of that....just take the cover off

Get yourself a penlight and look at the ground screw and neutral screw. You can typically view those without removing the outlet. If there is no screw on the green ground screw, yet the outlet reads like it is grounded....it is not grounded. It is picking up a ground or some sort of ground through the metal box, the emt feeding it, or even the bx or mc feeding it. Nevertheless, these are not approved methods for grounding any device. There has to be that third wire, which is hopefully either green or bare copper. That wire has to be attached to the green ground screw on the outlet. There should also be a wire coming from the box that is also green or bare copper, and it should be tied with this ground wire coming into the box. The proper connection of a ground wire to a metal electrical box is either on a green ground clip, which attaches to the side of the box, or a green ground screw, which screws into the back of the box. If the device is grounded via emt, bx, or mc, and the device becomes loose in the box, the ground will be lost UNLESS there is that 3rd wire....that little green or bare copper conductor that is physically attached to the outlet.

I see absolutely nothing wrong with 2 prong receptacles. Many areas in a house require grounded outlets such as the refrigerator, the microwave, the computer, the washer, the dryer, etc., and most of those circuits are also designated circuits. However, the outlet that is just going to have a lamp plugged into it does not require a ground and therefore, one does not have to be provided. Ideally, we would want all our switches and gfci's and duplexes to be grounded but in a older home, one that utilizes a two wire system, it is only recommended by me and virtually any city inspector I have run across, to ground only those receptacles requiring a ground.

Also, in most municipalities, it is illegal to just run a single 12 gauge conductor from a outlet to a water pipe. I've even had, believe it or not , some inspectors tell me that if you are going to ground a receptacle with a single wire, they want to see that conductor at a 6 gauge minimum. Now how far fetched is that lol? What I do if I need to ground a receptacle, is run a piece of nm to it and tie the ground in to the device and into a junction box where a ground is present. A single green or bare copper wire running out of a box and going to wherever is susceptable to damage and therefore not allowed. So even though there is that wire going to a green ground screw.....beware! It may not have been added properly.

Finally, and I cannot stress this point more! If the electrical panel is not grounded.....is anything else??? NO it is not. The ECG, Equipment Grounding Conductor, originates at the neutral buss at the first means of disconnection of the service equipment. That EGC must then be routed to all points requiring a ground such as in a subpanel, a receptacle, etc. If there is no ground rod and water bond at the panel....it is NOT grounded.
One can run green wires to every device they want to and if it does not go back to a GROUNDED panel....it provides NO ground protection whatsoever.

If a wire shorts to a metal box that has a ground on it, but the ground does not run back to the panel, it would be the same thing as not having a ground at all. It will not short out because the panel itself is not going to any grounding point. The ground loop must be there to provide adequate and proper grounding to all devices, panels, etc., within the house.

Ok we beat this one up enough....next subject Jeff


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This information has been edited and reviewed for errors by your favorite resident sparky.

Originally Posted By: jremas
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Dennis!!! We beat this one up enough??? After the simple double lugging issue was massacred? No, no, we need more info…






Jeff Remas
REMAS Inspections, Inc.
Northeastern PA & the Poconos
www.NEPAinspector.com

570-362-1598

Originally Posted By: jmyers
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Jeff,


What was the question again? ![icon_biggrin.gif](upload://iKNGSw3qcRIEmXySa8gItY6Gczg.gif)

Joe Myers


Originally Posted By: jfarsetta
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Quote:
If there is no screw on the green ground screw, yet the outlet reads like it is grounded....it is not grounded. It is picking up a ground or some sort of ground through the metal box, the emt feeding it, or even the bx or mc feeding it. Nevertheless, these are not approved methods for grounding any device. There has to be that third wire, which is hopefully either green or bare copper. That wire has to be attached to the green ground screw on the outlet. There should also be a wire coming from the box that is also green or bare copper, and it should be tied with this ground wire coming into the box. The proper connection of a ground wire to a metal electrical box is either on a green ground clip, which attaches to the side of the box, or a green ground screw, which screws into the back of the box. If the device is grounded via emt, bx, or mc, and the device becomes loose in the box, the ground will be lost UNLESS there is that 3rd wire....that little green or bare copper conductor that is physically attached to the outlet.

CodeCheck speaks of specific sections of the NEC which address this issue, including reference to a "self grounding" outlet, which mechanically and electrically bonds receptacle ground to the box vis the mounting screws.

My buddy Joe Myers is trying to run down a specific answer to this question. Any specific references here? Two licensed electricians I was having dinner with the other evening insist that receptacle ground can absolutely be provided via metallic armor on BX. They realize the potential problems with it, but insist it's allowed on existing installations according to the NEC.

Here are the specific references given by Doug Hansen of CodeCheck from IN.com

Quote:
Armored Cable, commonly known by the trade name BX, utilizes the cable armor as a grounding conductor. Like all cable systems, it comes with all the conductors already inside the cable. It has a paper wrapping around the insulated conductors inside the cable, and it includes an aluminum bonding wire in contact with the cable armor. Where it comes into the box, it requires an insulating bushing (known in the trades as a redhead) to protect the insulated wires from the sharp cut end of the cable armor. The fittings lock onto the outside of the armor, and only the fitting locknut and insulating bushing would be visible inside the box. You would also see the paper and the bonding wire. AC cable is very rare in new construction, and it is a pain to deal with. A similar product, MC cable, is quite common, especially in commercial, and it includes an insulated grounding conductor.
It may be that you have flexible metal conduit rather than a cable system. With flex conduit, the conduits are installed as a system, then the conductors are pulled through them. Flexible conduit used to be considered acceptable as an equipment grounding conductor until the 1971 code. Since that time, any length greater than 6 feet requires a grounding conductor to be pulled inside the conduit.

Regardless of which type of system you have, their weaknesses in terms of grounding have to do with the possibilities of damage during installation, and since you say the grounding checked out OK, I wouldn't be worrying about the effectiveness of the wiring method to provide a good grounding conductor to the boxes.

There are two acceptable ways to assure that these receptacles stay connected to the grounding source at the box. One is to install a wire bonding jumper from the receptacle grounding terminal and land it on the box. The other is to use a "self grounding" receptacle. One of the attachment screws will be just like an ordinary receptacle, with a little paper or plastic washer keeping the screw from falling out. The other screw will be captive inside a brass clip, and the connection of that screw to the box assures a grounding connection to the yoke, and hence to the U-slot, of the receptacle. If you have a 1999 NEC, refer to section 250-146(b). If you have an earlier edition, refer to 250-74Exception2.
Douglas Hansen



So, which is it? Acceptable or Unacceptable?


Originally Posted By: jremas
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You dug up some good information Joe F, I do understand that the AC cable that they make today can be purchased without a separate bare of green equipment ground. The MC cable is more of a commercial product and can be purchased with the separate green equipment ground. The current AC cable is more like the old style BX cable (it was called BX because one of the places it was manufactured was in the Bronx) that does not have a separate equipment ground conductor.


Here IS where the difference comes in. : When you look at the older style "BX" cable, it does not have a separate "ribbon" or "bonding strip" (copper or aluminum). Today's AC cable does have the strip installed and the strip is in direct contact with the metal armor. We use the strip to hold the anti-short bushing in place.

Section 250-51 of the NEC requires that a ground path be capable of carrying any value of fault current that it might be called upon to carry. The bonding strip of the newer AC cable is there to assure that the impedance or "resistance" of the armored cable is low enough to meet the demands of 250-51. If you read 333-21 you will see that the specs for AC requires it. That IS why todays AC cable IS approved to use the sheating (armor) as a equipment grounding conductor.

The older style BX with NO bonding strip was never manufactured for that purpose, therefore it is NOT to be used as an equipment ground.

There now,..does that make sense??


--


Jeff Remas
REMAS Inspections, Inc.
Northeastern PA & the Poconos
www.NEPAinspector.com

570-362-1598

Originally Posted By: jmyers
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Joe,


I am not sure of the source of your information but the metal casing on those style cables is flexible metal conduit, whether they come with the wires preinstalled or not. MC, BX and AC are cables that use flexible metal conduit for a protective covering, as to protect it from physical damage where type NM or UF style cable can not be used.

Greenfield is the term for flexible metal tubing without the wires installed. The difference between the two would be that since the MC, BX and AC style cables come with the wires installed they are for a single dedicated circuit (single or double pole) where the greenfield comes in different sizes, just like standard PVC, EMT and RMC so you can size the conduit to the number of circuits that are needed. These products are more common in commercial applications but are often used in residential applications when the cable needs protection from physical damage.

I am not sure where you got the information from but I certainly question its accuracy.

From what I have read, Jeff R's assessment of the AC (armor clad) cable is correct and the armor can be used for grounding but was intended more for retrofit than new construction.

The MC and MC lite (metal clad, and aluminum metal clad) style cables are intended more for new construction.

I have not come across any restrictions yet on the AC style cable that would prohibit its use instead of the MC style cable but I believe it was intended more for retrofit than for new circuits.

I will keep you informed on what I find.

Joe Myers


Originally Posted By: jmyers
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Joe F.


After checking the NEC and posting a message on Mike Holt it is correct that those cable casing are ok to use as an equipment grounding conductor.

The gereral concensus is that if it is the older BX style cable, don't do it but it is ok to use the cable casing as a grounded conductor with MC and AC style cables. I personally would frown upon this practice if they were used as the only grounded conductor but as you know with MC style cable they already have a seperate grounding conductor in the casing. With the newer style AC type cable they contain a bonding strip to the metal casing.

BTW...the older BX style cable does not have that bonding strip in the metal casing and I would flag it if it were being used as the only grounding conductor in an installation.

Joe Myers


Originally Posted By: Dennis Bozek
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icon_eek.gif All fine and good but what happens to this so called ground through the metal sheathing found in bx and mc if there is no ground at the panel? Is that circuit then grounded? And what happens to the ground at the receptacle if it becomes loose and no longer makes contact with the box? Is the receptacle still grounded then?


Years ago in a commercial environment, using the conduit as a ground was acceptable but what they found was that the connections of conduit can become corroded or even come apart and when such happens....you lose the ground. Therefore, on or about the 1999 code I believe they prohibited the use of conduit for a ground and required that a conductor be pulled into the conduit to provide grounding. The same holds true with bx amd mc, in that although it is metal and traveling back to the panel via metal parts, unless the device actually has a ground wire on it, this alternative method of grounding is not sufficient. If that mc or bx loosens up anywhere or it pulls away from it's metal connector because it was pulled to tight or the connector was not tight....you lose the egc. If ya just pull in a wire to become the egc.....the whole dang mess of mc and bx and conduit can fall apart.....and that device will still.....always and forever be.....GROUNDED!

When mc or emt is run, the egc in those types of raceways is tied to the device as well as the j box that the device is mounted in. Now what you have is a egc originating at the panel that has grounded the device and the metal box. If the outlet shorts against the box....wham......tripped breaker. If there is no actual ground wire.....and that bx or emt should lose it's intergrity as far as continuity back to the grounded panel......and that outlet shorts against the box.....no wham and no tripped breaker. But what you do have now is a "live" j box. I cannot stress the importance of running a egc to every device requiring such versus utilizing the sheath on mc or bx or emt as the egc more. We can beat this one to death too but I stand by the fact that without that actual EGC traveling to the device and connecting to it....the reliability of the ground is degraded.


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This information has been edited and reviewed for errors by your favorite resident sparky.

Originally Posted By: jremas
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Dennis, you are correct, that is the problem with allowing the armor of AC cable to be allowed as a ground, hence the problem with conduit. Connections are a problem and don’t forget that with aluminum armor, set screw type connectors are prohibited. Unfortunately AC armor is allowed and until they change the NEC or we become code officials for a municipality and don’t allow it then there is nothing we can do.


I don't think that using the armor is a good practice. At least we know that the older BX with no bonding strip is not allowable as a ground. We should see this practice with AC very seldom.


--


Jeff Remas
REMAS Inspections, Inc.
Northeastern PA & the Poconos
www.NEPAinspector.com

570-362-1598

Originally Posted By: Dennis Bozek
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icon_eek.gif Gee I thought we was gonna beat this up some more. I was getting ready…had my code book in hand…and my pen…and now I’m






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This information has been edited and reviewed for errors by your favorite resident sparky.

Originally Posted By: jfarsetta
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Thanks for the help, guys…


But here is the question, and it goes to how far we should be reading or interpreting things, as it varies from jurisdiction to jurisdiction.

Joe Myers and I started this conversation yesterday, and he was kind enough to help me out, here. You see, I never flagged BX cable armour being used as the grounding conductor prior to reading this thread.

I mentioned it this past Saturday, at a dinner party where two of the guests were experienced electrical contractors. I've known both of these guys for some time now. I dont believe they'd steer me wrong. When I mentioned BX and grounding, they told me I would be wrong to flag its use as a ground.

I went back to this thread, and looked at Dennis pos regarding this subject being beaten to death at IN.com. I searched that entire site, and the onky threads I found regarding BX and grounding, SUPPORTED its use as an acceptable grounding methodology. In fact, even where I call for a separate green ground jumper, I was apparently wrong, as the NEC allows for "Self-grounding" receptacles.

So, this thread has not been expanded to include an example of info from the NEC, from Mike Hot, from two sparkys, from CodeCheck, and finally (now the latest), from my Client of this exening, who happens to be a licensed electrical contractor out of NY City. All sources state the same thing: the armor can be used, its an accepted practice, and the NEC allows it (with aluminum spiral built into the armor, e.g.: the newer BX).

So, Dennis' assertions have me confused. I mean, guys, how far are we supposed to go? To me, some of these interpretations are based more upon personal feelings rather than a matter of practice, practicality, and the written word.

I'm afraid that if I start to read-into the Code requirements or restrictions, I will wind-up with my a$$ in hot water down the line. Several Code inspectors, including building, electrical, and plumbing, have recommended to homeowners to sue the home inspector for overstepping their bounds with regard to code issues, and the fact that innacurate claims as to compliance issues have scared some buyers away from a home, where there was in fact, no violation. It's the truth guys. Its starting to happen in Dutchess County, NY.

I think we need to qualify what we post here. I, for one, appreciate the information and try to apply it wherever practical. In this case, Dennis' advice and assertion is that BX armor is still an unacceptable ground source, when in fact, Jeff has cleared it up for some folks by stating that he may not like it, but it's an accepted practice. There's a difference between lending advice based upon personal experience, rather than stating that something isnt permitted, when in fact it may be. There's a difference...

To all, thanks for the help! To Dennis, thanks for the insight, wisdom, and experience...