I have a issue or possibly today on a inspection. No cracking or signs of it settling. Has stress joints but no cracks through them.
And uniform drop across it.
What would y’all say?
About 1.5-2” height difference on the end
I am wondering if it was not supposed to be like that for rainwater slope, it does not really look like it had actually settled down from the bricks, when I see settling sometimes I can see where the poured concrete or expansion fillers had butted up against, I don’t really know what to say about it being right or wrong because it looks like it would just trap water against the brick
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I’m with Greg, the pitch appears correct to promote rainwater run-off. Kinda dumb to dam it up with the bricks though.
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First, welcome to our forum, Carl. Enjoy!
Option:
The concrete porch has a fairly uniform drop away from the house of 1 1/2" to 2" in height. Bricks have been place along the perimeter of the porch. Among other things this traps water and presents a trip hazard. I recommend a qualified contractor assess the drop and make changes to the porch for safety and enhanced integrity of the slab and water run off, as needed.
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Judging from the bubble on the level, it seems to indicate that the top of the brick is pitching down from the house, and the top of the stair and slab were meant to be at the same height, pretty much identifies itself as settlement of the slab and needs to be repaired.
Just call out for a general contractor to repair as needed.
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That header course of brick acts as a dam to divert water downstream, Carl.
I see no ponding stains or efflorescence from resting water. Looks like the slope is correct.
Next time, use your level in both direction. Perpendicular and parallel the wall you are referencing from.
Best regards.
Robert
That’s a significant trip hazard at the step and trapping the water like that would most likely cause more problems in the future. Refer to a general or masonry contractor for repair is the best option IMHO.
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James. A front porch. There are guardrails inches away from the rise.
When you traverse hallways do you recommend doorways so you don’t walk into walls?
You know I am making light of your post. No offence given. Non should be taken.
Best regards.
Robert
Try not to look for defects that aren’t there.
Robert if You haven’t seen the defect yet I suggest You put Your glasses on and take another look. The level shown shows proper slope to the top of those bricks…just sayin…
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Possibly James was talking about the step leading to the front door
no but that could be another issue…
May I ask, what is the preferred slope of a landing, as opposed to the ‘permitted slope?’
Let me help.
Accessible routes: shall consist of ‘one or more’ of the following components:
walking surfaces with a running slope not steeper than 1:20 doorways, ramps, curb ramps excluding the flared sides, elevators, and platform lifts.
Moreover: The preferred slope for a building access ramp is, between 7 and 15 degrees. The permitted slope range, between 0° and 20° degrees:-)
So what you trying to explain? Did I see what?
never mind Robert I obviously cant help You with this
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In general, the smaller the rise, the bigger the tread. I used the 25 rule. 2 rises one tread = 25.
You can choose what’s comfortable for you but generally ‘outdoor steps’ have a rise of 5 ½ to 7 inches and a tread of 12 to 18 inches.
The tread width might be off but I though the discussion was Accessible routes.
That we agree on:-)
If I was inspection, and reporting afterwards, siding is recommended to be at least 4" to 6" above ground level.
Observation: Siding above porch accessible route is deficient. Too close to the poured concrete accessible route surface.
Recommend: A licensed siding contractor improve siding clearance.
Observation Limitations. None.
Robert, please spare me and go find your Meds. And if you can’t understand what Jim is saying go to bed. 
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LOL! LOL! LOL! Funny…can I stay up? 
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What I did not see is the brick course affecting the access to the steps leading to the walkway. The close up was distracting me.
Its an easy fix without mortar. A steel plate with fasteners can fashioned to act as a ramp.
Sorry all.
Siding still to close to the concrete.Lol.