I’m loosing my mind… I’ve seen multiple answers online, and now looking to ask some fellow inspectors. I talked with one roofer, and he said they prefer to go past the rake edge.
The house had drip/rake edge on all sides, so on the rake there was rake edge, but the shingles where cut in line with the rake edge, or a little in.
from what I read, it can be flush if drip edge is present, or it can extend 3/8— 1/2 extending out from the rake edge. all the neighbors houses had the same rake edge, but the shingles extended out.
Normally 1/4" to 3/8" is recommended but no more than 3/4". I would just call it out and say something along the lines of most manufacturers recommend overhang and at the very least the shingles should be sealed down and monitored in the future.
Seems I recall that some shingle manufacturer allow omitting rake flashing with a certain shingle overhang. I saw that fairly frequently back in Oregon. Usually, a trim board would be tacked to the barge rafter and the shingles would hang out over that. I’m personally not a fan since the dangling edge of shingles easily gets busted by a ladder or falling branch. I HATE overhanging shingles at the drip edge… Usually, that’s the first sign of a hack job by some homeowner. Makes cleaning gutters nearly impossible without getting bloody hands.
Did you lift the raked shingles to see if they are secured and the underlayment was under the drip-edge?
I like to see starter sealed to drip-edge with mastic.
ON RAKES; install drip edge on top of the underlayment to stop wind-driven rain from getting underneath. That seals wind driven weather.
