Relatively new inspector here in NC. I was a licensed res. contractor in Florida so I am trying to learn a little about the differences here. Nobody uses drip edge on their roofs here. In FL, obviously with winds, we used it, nailed the hell out of it and sealed it to anything it touched. I have seen overhangs of 2-3 inches or more here and the shingles are drooping and it looks terrible. Doing a little research, I am having trouble finding a recommended overhang on a home with no drip edge. We always did about 1/2” in FL but that was with the metal edge. I have been calling out anything over 2.5” for possibility of cracking. With capillary action, I would think 1-1.5” should be sufficient with no metal and anything less would be an issue. Thoughts? TIA
If you’re referring to asphalt shingles, the overhang should be no more than 1" (some specs will say 3/4" max) exactly for the reasons you stated. They’ll start to droop and break, at eaves they can cause water to overshoot the gutter. BTW, a drip edge flashing is required by pretty much all asphalt manufacturer installation instructions and it has been like this for 25-30+ years.
Up here in northern MI country, I overhung asphalt shingles 1/4" to 3/8" and that was sufficient for here. 
I’m in Florida also. And a contractor. And that much overhang of the shingles it’s ridiculous. I don’t understand why the Yankees don’t use the drip edges.
We do, clueless contractors don’t.
Drip edges is standard up here, I never came across one that did not have it. And the shingles don’t overhang at all.
I always used a metal drip edge with 1/2" overhang any more than that just didn’t look right.
I know, every manufacturers installation instructions I looked at to see if they had a guide for homes without drip edge, but non of them did. All the new construction around here is no using it and the building departments are not enforcing it. So I can’t really call it a defect if it isn’t required by code here.
Was that without drip edge?
No, we ALWAYS used drip edge, Stephen! 
Unless the codes override it… you must follow manufacturing specs. I doubt local codes override it, find it in writing 
as for not being enforced, some building inspectors are still catching up. If it rains by you, physics work the same
This Yankee does, Roy! 
Ha, true. Trust me I will be using it when I do my roof in a few years. I will probably just make a note of it instead of calling it a deficiency. Thanks to all!
Talk to your building inspector, show them the installation specs, and ask them why they believe they are not necessary Let us know what they say.
I know you do inspector Joseph! Yep
Here in MD I always flag it as a defect and recommend installation of drip edge.
Back in the day when I was roofing in California, new construction often had a shingle molding that covers the sheathing. The shingle molding was usually a 1x2 or 1x3. Where there was a shingle molding, we didn’t use a drip edge flashing aka nosing aka D-metal (jargon varies region to region). The drip edge on the shingle extending beyond the barge rafter was one knuckle, typically 1/2”-3/4”.
This has changed. 2012 ICC R 905.2.5.5 now requires a metal drip edge on shingle roofs