So does anybody have experience with this wonderful water heater. Does everything look properly attached here? Hmmmm…
Since I am not in Florida I will not comment but provide you with this for laughs.
Provided by Roy Cooke
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vffdymvjluk .
That’s hilarious Kevin. Does anyone notice anything wrong with the picture I posted?
TPRV
Very creative way to use every piece of scrap material laying in the back of the van to complete this installation. Might not be right but I bet his boss loves him.
Yes I see black electrical tape on the copper line and if indeed that is the Service electrical to it, it should be in a junction box or have a outlet and not through foam like shown. However there is more stuff then this I would be commenting on for sure. Sloppy work comes to mind at this time.
I can say that this might not need a TPRV as it may be a booster heating unit. Not familiar with this model.
This might help to track down that particular model.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/eemaxso.html
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/rball.gif
Our electric units don’t require a T&P valve (no tank!) - if code allows.
Above copied from: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/eemaxso.html
See post # 3
I never said it needed it
And I never said you did.
Where is the vent to the exterior? There is a lot wrong with this. One thing to mention is the supply. These units may need to be flushed with a vinegar/water solution as I understand it so a union would have been a good idea.
Jarrod it is electric.
Surely this is for a bathroom or kitchen. I have actually had very good luck with “electric” models if they are supplying up to one room or one fixture; i.e. sink. Besides all of the goofyness everyone has already commented on in the picutre, I like this model. Just not the installation.
How long have you had one and how often does it need service.
How many people in your home .
What is the electric feed needed for the unit you have .
What is incoming water temp in winter ?
These is information I would love to have and I expect others would too.
Any more info would be appreciated like cost to put one in and expected life if used a lot.
Thanks… Roy
I looked at other models that have outputs of 0-7 gpm and 7-10 gpm.
Power requirements are 220V using #6 and #8 on some models. 
The last electric on demand I saw took three 60 amp circuits. I would say that most people probably don’t have 6 empty slots in their panel. You might have to run a sub just for the water heater.
Definately not something I would be intersted in with that kind of power demand.
I just looked at one online. A whole home sized for my home. It takes four 40 amp, 240v breakers. Sheesh… I’m with you.
Here’s how you get hot water in Central and South America in Los Hoteles Mas Barato, that’s 200 to 400 volts in those wires(!!!) . Scary looking but sort of works. Showers are not very hot but OK.
Excellent questions. I was a licensed plumber for 12 years here in Missouri. I installed countless tankless models. To me, there is no doubt the gas models are the best. I would say the same thing about tanked appliances as well. However, with the questions you raised it is obvious you have given this a great deal of thought. I do quite a bit of plumbing and hvac consulting for businesses as well as homeowners here in Columbia, MO. So, to answer your questions I would have to be at a particular house with a client or customer. In this case the home would have “x” number of people (users). I inspect EACH fixture in the home or business and calculate from there once I have the average incoming water temperature. In town water will be more consistent than someone on a private well which is still extremely common in our state. If someone is really interested in an electric model, I always recommend having an electrician include a sub-panel in their bid. The electrician SHOULD already be at the home to do the appliance service connection so a sub-panel is no big deal. This of course is based upon what the customer wants v.s. needs. Once I know what the total demand on the appliance would be, I calculate as though it is Thanksgiving or Christmas and they have the house totally full. If they are set on a tankless model, I want them to have water that is 120 *F at a rate which is no less than 80% total flow of the largest fixture in the house. A garden tub can make this very complicated. But, all in all, I want the whole plumbing system to be used at the same time with little to no noticeable effect on flow or pressure.
I also recommend a vingar or chemical flushing of the system at least once per calendar year. I also explain how they can do this themselves or they could have a plumber do it of course. Hopefully, this helped.