Does anyone use or know much about the electronic radon testing systems? I currently use the activated charcoal canisters but was wondering if it would be a benefit to go with the electronic type testing, any help would be appreciated.
Try looking at Sun Nuclear, and also do a search in the ancilliary threa for more info.
There are those out there that feel we as home inspectors have to go beyond the minimum standards. Yet for some reason many home inspectors buy the cheapest/basic radon machine allowed and perform the minimum standard regarding Radon testing.
Just something I’ve noticed.
+1 I use it.
I plan on getting licensed this year because of the large increase of Radon tests I have subbed out the last couple of years. I have used a few different Subs in my area. The one that uses the Sun Nuclear 1028 has by far the best looking reports. I did research and have concluded this is the machine I will be using as well. http://www.sunnuclear.com/radon/1028/1028.asp
The 1028 cost around $800.00 each.
I own 2 sun 1027’s. The state has no problem with them as long as you follow protocals.
I was going to start with the 1027s but after some research found out that the 27s software is not upgradeable, whereas the 28 & 29 is. I also found out the 27s are not shielded, that they can, I stress can, receive interference from outside sources such as a cell phone. But they are I think around $200.00 more per machine.
Bobby do you also perform Mitigation?
They are called " Professional Continuous Radon Monitors" by Sun Nuclear Corp.
I use 3 1027 models. I rarely ever get interference issues, in which case it interrupts downloading of the results, so then you do it again but move the monitor farther away fro source- that’s all.
You should use one per type of foundation in the home, place in the most habitable rooms.
What do you mean “use one per type of foundation”?
And you don’t place it in the lowest habitable room in the structure?
No I don’t do mitigation. There’s alot more to get into with the State regulations in doing mitigation than I would care to deal with. I have never had any issues with interferance with my units.
Oh, sorry i was not completely clear on that.
A home with a basement will get one in the basement= lowest inhabitable room. That is the typical arrangement with most homes.
If same home has a crawlspace and there is a habitable room above the crawlspace- you place a monitor in that room too.
If there is also a habitable room that is built on a Slab on grade foundation.
You put a monitor in that room too.
If the home is all of one type of foundation it gets one monitor and you can place another if you like for diagnostic purposes.
Know what i mean?
So your saying you may place up to 3 units in one house. I’ve been subbing them out for 7 years now. I have never seen it done that way here. At least not yet. One unit in the lowest habitable room in the house is the only way I’ve seen the test done here in Ohio.
That’s how I do it in Ohio. I couldn’t imagine leaving 3 monitors in one house.
Yeah, In Illinois that’s how it is conducted according to the regulations for measurement. EACH foundation type is a completely separate situation. lf you are an Illinois licensed radon measurement tech and you wish to set a measurement in Illinois, you should represent each type of foundation.
So if you find a level below 4 PcIL in the basement, and you do not test a room over a gravel crawl… how do you know there is not an elevated level there? There very well could be higher level as there is less to impede the gas from rising up
Same goes for a room on a slab. How does a reading in the basement of the home count against that slab on grade room? If there is an elevated level of radon in the earth there, maybe it will be found above the action level. You cant know for sure but isn’t it wise to assume.
I want to see whats going on for the home as a whole.
I mean, you cant be too careful - the stuff causes lung cancer after all.
How much does calibration cost? How often,I think my state is every thirty days.
I used to use the canisters - but it would sometimes take a week or more to get results - start test (2 days), FedEx canisters to lab (1 day), 2 days to get results from lab (2 days) - If it was done over a weekend, add 2 more days - too long - got a 1028 and now results in 2 days - take it home, download, email results -
Calibration from Sun is $135 - but remember, it takes 7-10 business days to get calibration, so add $45 for 2nd day shipping back so you are not out your machine for too long - calibration is due once a year -
Fill in your profile information so people can see where your from.
I use the Sun 1027.
Each monitor requires calibration by an approved lab yearly.
(made mistake 2 years ago of sending monitors to an unapproved lab)
If you own your own monitors you need to have a QA/QC (Quality Assurance/Quality control program.
(This can be difficult at the beginning) (Also difficult if you need to do a years worth of reports like I did to determine my worker exposure levels)
Cross checks every 6 months with a recently calibrated machine, duplicates every 10 tests. (I had a buyer request duplicate documentation as he tried everything to get out of paying for a mitigation system)
Need to have a safety plan as well. Need to calculate your exposure in each home.
In regards to the location of testing it depends if it is a real estate transaction.
Non real estate - lowest occupied
Real estate - lowest occupiable (regardless if finished or not)
Each State may have different requirements. (I have a good relationship with Sun Nuclear, The Ohio Dept of Health)
Re certification required every 2 years. (I use a program called Certi)
I used to use radalink monitors and the plus side is they took care of the costs of re certification and did all of the quality control. Downside was the lease fee and pay per test.
Down side to the Sun 1027 is not having temperature, humidity and pressure readings. (This is great to have to determine if tampering or improper testing conditions were meet)
I am looking into getting a seperate device for logging temperature/humidity. costs $100. Sun 1029 is about $1500