I have an approx 8x12 mud room off the back of my house. I don’t know if it was originally a porch or what(the floor is sloped away from the house.) But anyway before I bought the house at some point it has been finished into a room. It currently is the T&G plank floor and stud walls on the inside with no insulation so its freezing in there. The connecting wall is still the steel siding. We want to insulate it and drywall the other 3 walls, 2 of which have windows in them. The room has all the necessary hookups for washer and dryer already… The celing is sloped with the roof line and would like to keep it that way and just drywall over the rafters.
ok hopefully that gives a good picture of the room.
My specific questions are
If I want this to get counted as living space if I sell…
Can I just leave the sided wall as is or do i need to wall it out and drywall it?
Are there standards on insulation levels? I was thinking R13 on the wall and 30 on the ceiling??? I want it insulated good so if thats not enough say so. Also what type on the ceiling ? fiberglass?
Do I need heat?? if so is an alectric basedboard ok?
Also anything else that needs consideration please let me know.
Hey Nick,
I have posted my opinions based on how I would view the room during an inspection. Can you tell us where you’re located?
Can I just leave the sided wall as is or do i need to wall it out and drywall it? A wall with bare siding screams DIY quality work, which is red flag for me during an inspection. I would suggest removing the siding, making sure you have a tight seal between the existing wall and the new structure, then re-finish.
Are there standards on insulation levels? I was thinking R13 on the wall and 30 on the ceiling??? Your R-value is going to depend on the depth of your insulation. Here is a ton of info: http://www.nachi.org/insulation-r-value.htm
I would suggest blown cellulose for walls and ceilings. It will get you the most insulation in the least amount of space.
Do I need heat?? Absolutely yes - especially if you’re going to have a washer/dryer in there. if so is an alectric basedboard ok? I don’t see any problems with it.
Also anything else that needs consideration please let me know.
Ventilation is your friend, especially in a mud room. It will help the drying process, which will discourage mold growth.
Your wood floor will not probably perform well in a wet environment. If you are going to replace it, I would suggest something that is not wood. If you’re not going to replace it, try to minimize the amount of moisture in the room (difficult in a mud-room).
Make sure you have attic ventilation of some kind.
Hope this helps. I’m sure you’ll get more responses too.
Ok i hear what you are saying on the sided wall. Is a 2x4 wall sufficient after its removed? assuming all is well underneath.
There are currently only electric outlets on 2 walls. Sufficient for code??
There is no attic area just a finished shingle roof on the room. I plan on sheet rocking to the rafters. only about 10 ft high at the top.
So ventilation…could it just be a passive vent of some sort or does it need to be an active fan?? is that code or just smart.
Also i eventually plan on running electric to a shed I have and will have a switch in this room to run an outside light on the shed. Can i pre do what i need to before finishing the walls to make it easier even though it wont be hooked up yet?
Thats what I am affraid of…and what is considered proper?? I am under NC building code govern my county and I am outside city limits.
Sean: are you saying there are no other code issues besides a heat source???
Brian: whats proper??? its block wall. with no poured concrete underneath?? Are you saying I would need to jack up the room and pour footings to sheetrock the room??
also can the heat source be a wall mounted but outlet operated heater?
Is a 2x4 wall sufficient after the siding is removed? assuming all is well underneath. 2x4 should be fine
There are currently only electric outlets on 2 walls. Sufficient for code?? I’m not an electrical code expert and the rules will vary a little with different locations, but I would say 2 would be fine. If you’re worried about it contact your city’s electrical inspector.
So ventilation…could it just be a passive vent of some sort or does it need to be an active fan?? Don’t vent if you there’s not attic space
Also i eventually plan on running electric to a shed I have and will have a switch in this room to run an outside light on the shed. Can i pre do what i need to before finishing the walls to make it easier even though it wont be hooked up yet? You will definitely want to run your conduit (or wire) before installing sheet rock. Also, be sure to use an exterior-rated type of wire.
What type of foundation is there now, any??
If it is still an enclosed porch then you probably can not consider it in the sf.
You will need to check with your local area to see what they required, but yes some type of permanant foundation should be neede also.
its got a block wall foundation under it…but there is no poured concrete under that. the house was built in the 30’s and this was on the house then. i dont know for sure but it feels like a porch…maybe a screened in porch?? but its been closed in sided has a roof etc.
Wouldn’t having a roof and siding require the same foundation as to sheetrock it??
Someone told me title insurance will cover this if its not to code as is it now??? is that true?
just wanna throuw this out there too. the wall are framed at 20 oc. what do i do about insulating???
cut/stuff 24"wide in then??
basically do i need a solid vapor barrier?? which i could achieve by cutting down or stuffing 24 in there or should i use unfaced and run a solid vapor barrier over it??
you said not to vent…what about roof venting. its currently not vented at all. The whole house has closed soffit. This room does not connect to the house attic at all?
I cant really afford spray foam so whats my best option?
