GFCI below the main panel

Is the circuit dedicated for the GFCI below the main panel allowed to have other circuits added? The exterior and numerous basement receptacles were added to this circuit.

I would think the only problem would be tripping the GFCI under the panel if overloaded.

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Any oulets added downstream of the GFCI would also be protected so I don’t see any problems with this.
Any overloads would trip the circuit breaker not the GFCI.
Of course any leakage current of devices plugged into this circuit would be additive and should trip the GFCI if the sum is above it’s trip level(5 mA)

Is that a wire staple I see securing the doubled NM?

Looks like there may also be neutrals and grounds under the same screw on the bus.:frowning:

Yes it is. Is that a problem?

I don’t have my code book handy but I believe they need a saddle of some type not just a wire staple only.

We don’t have basements here, but our exterior receptacles are almost always tied into the garage GFCI. It is no issue.

A better answer is: depends.

Insulated vs.
Non-insulated Staples

                               Many local codes permit use of UL Listed non-insulated staples               driven by staple guns as an alternative to hammer-in insulated               staples, because of the gun’s controlled staple driving depth.               NO DAMAGE TO THE WIRE!

I normally see them with a sadle or an insulator under the staple in my area. The uninsulated ones require special tools.

NEC 2005 code 334.30 that reads in part “nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be secured by staples designed and installed so as not to damage the cable.”

Acme Staples

Methods of securing wiring methods are not really spelled out in the NEC. Without actually having the box the staple came in it is hard to say if it is listed for 1 or 2 cables. The same goes for the clamp in the box. Generally if it looks secure, it is. Mr Larson is right about not damaging the cable. A properly driven staple is not squeezing the wire, it is only holding it laterally.

I agree

Not a problem

Most NM staples ARE approved for two cables. Some are actually approved for three cables.

I guess for an existing home inspection, it really doesn’t matter much unless you can clearly see that the staple is damaging the wire. After all, for every one you can see there are probably a hundred or more that you can’t:mrgreen:

Good point Frank. I agree 100%

What about use of Romex on the exterior of a wall?

A garage has a bunch of junk that will potentially damage unprotected nonmetallic wiring.

Protect from physical damage: NEC {336-6b}

The size of the box looks undersized for the number of conductors installed. Assuming 14 Ga. conductors this box would need to have at least 14 cu. in capacity. 2 cables x 2 +2 for device + 1 ground = 7, 7*2=14

Physical damage is a local call. In Md it was vert common to see Romex on running blarrds exposed in garages and utility rooms. In Florida it all has to be in pipe if it is exposed up to 6’6 or to the ceiling. They used to require EMT behind sheetrock on 3/4" furred block walls too (in most places) but that went away. Now they let them use “stackers” to get the 1.25" laterally. I think it was a bad decision. I guy “probing” for a furring strip to hang a picture can still get that wire.

Yes … there are terminals/connectors on GFCI receptacles specifically for that purpose.

Thats okay as long as those downstream exterior/basement receptacles are wired correctly to the “load” terminals of the GFCI device, which will provide the required GFCI protection. If they are wired to the “line” terminals of the GFCI device, there would be no GFCI protection.

An easy way to check this is to press the “test” button on the GFCI device. If the exterior/basement receptacles then shut off they have GFCI protection.

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