Inspection on a one-year-old house built by a large production (cookie-cutter) builder. To me the gussets looked poorly positioned. They certainly could have a better bite of the chords, but my question is…do they have enough bite on the chords to provide the connective strength needed for the trusses. The house is located in a place that really catches the wind and has already been exposed to a few 40-50 mph winds with no evidence of movement.
All the gussets looked just like the photo. This was not a large home and the trusses only spanned about 30’.
I’m not a SE, but from here it looks like that gusset plate is oversized for that application and IMO not a problem.
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A look at the truss shop drawings should show the proper gusset sizes and locations.
The gusset plates look like they are within the TPI https://www.tpinst.org/ guidelines. If memory serves me correctly, minimum of one inch of gusset plate lap into the web members. The roof sheathing should have blocking installed at the peak of the roof sheathing panels edges. OSB is not approved for tile roof installations in Florida, not sure about your area.
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Looks like a Friday afternoon or Monday morning truss.
I had some that looked similar this last week, and they seemed plenty sturdy when I shook them.
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Or just after lunch. 
I hate things like this… VERY unlikely to ever be a problem but I hate to not comment and have it come up when my buyer sells… then my phone rings.
I’d probably write it up as poorly placed gussets and to clarify with the truss company or an engineer that it’s an acceptable installation.
The ANSI/TPI standard is black ink on white paper.
Nothing to write up. That gusset is just barely off center.
This is what you call off center
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Lon, something doesn’t smell right on your truss. First all legitimate truss companies would have used 2x4 lumber on a 30’ truss. Either case the truss plate would have been culled if found at the factory.
It does look like an additional piece of lumber was used along the top cord on the left making the back gusset angle up and backwards. Looks problematic to me.
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Got a pic of the entire truss, (center third), not just a close-up of the plate?
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Guys, guys, guys… looks like everything is snug and holding together nicely. That gusset has about 100 nails (points) hydraulically-pressed into the chords/web. Compare that to a century ago when all there would be is about 1/2 dozen toe-nails holding everything together. The first question you should always ask yourself is “is this working?” Unless you know for sure that these chords will separate in the future AND cause a problem, why would you even mention anything about this?
Thus my question above for another pic. I, for one, would like to see the ‘full story’. I don’t form opinions on single views of a fraction of the story.
I don’t have any full truss photos, but here are some general attic photos.
Did not know that about Florida. OSB allowed here.
The trusses had 2X4s even if some of them looked like they were pulled from Home Depot’s culled pile. Everyone talks about the crummy lumber today, but even 40 years ago we would laugh (when we didn’t grimace) at the boards we pulled off the stacks. It was amazing sometimes what studs would do when you cut the bands on a stack.
Unrelated but the “cones” on the boot jacks had collapsed and it looked like a decent amount of water was draining down one of the furnace flues.
And I wrote up the piss-poor ceiling cut-out around the plenum.
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If there is no ADDITIONAL cord member along side the top cord on the left, then no problem IMHO.
But, if there is an ADDITIONAL cord member, then it is a problem.
Can’t be definitive from this one picture:
Inverted weather boots are typical caused by the lack of support on the vent pipe in the attic. Most likely the vent pipe was horizontal then turned vertically to position the vent pipe to exit on the back side of the house. The horizontal portion is typically held up with wire or some other unsecured method which allows the pipe to move downward. Securing the pipe to solid blocking between the truss webs or rafter bracing is a better solution.
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