Electric water heater picture - Cold water enters the bottom of the tank through a plastic pipe with an anti-siphon hole within the top 6 inches of the tank. It has a fully open valve to cut off water flow in the cold ater supply pipe. The hot water leaves through the top of the tank and is attached to the sacrificial anode rod. The drain valve is near the bottom. The TPR valve is at the top 6 inches of the tank where the water is the hottest. The electrical supply is fed through the top with a minimum of 10 AWG wire and a shut off device within 50 ft.
The picture provided is the bottom portion of a water heater. As you can see there is already something missing in this picture. There is no drip pan installed underneath the water heater. During an inspection this is something I would call out; especially since its sitting on a wooden platform. If for some reason there were to be really any amount of water leaking from the water heater this could seriously damage the wood platform over time; possibly creating a mold issue as well.
Located in the basement is a white in color Whirlpool water heater with 50-gallon capacity. The water heater is gas operated, with Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant system (FVIR) and 40,000 btu/hr, high alt de-rate to 28,800 btu. There are no visible signs of damage. Temperature and Pressure relief (TPR) valve is present and no signs of leakage at time of inspection. There is a sealed burn chamber with pilot light window. Pilot light is on. When the hot water valve is turn on the water heater burner did ignite. The exhaust vent is in good order with no signs of rust.
To prevent water heater explosion a Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant (FVIR) water heater was design. These water heaters prevent ignited vapors from passing out of the combustion chamber, has a one-way intake system for air into combustion chamber and a sealed combustion chamber to prevent combustion air and flammable vapors from entering the front of the water heater. Common among all FVIR heaters is the flame arrestor plate, thermal cutoff switch and lint, dust and oil screen.
The arrestor plate prevents the flame from igniting flammable vapors below the plate. The thermal cutoff will turn off the heater if it detects excessive temperature changes in the combustion chamber. Finally, the lint, dust and oil screen protects the combustion chamber from lint, dust and oil.
Aluminum siding is slowly fading away as far as selecting siding for a home goes. But because its still a component used on homes its something to definitely get familiar with in case you come across it during a home inspection. Due to the fact that its aluminum, being able to recognize this shouldnt be an issue in comparison to vinyl or wood siding; however you may need to use a magnet to tell the difference between steel. Aluminum siding is very durable and can last for 40 years or more if treated properly. When inspecting aluminum siding, depending on jurisdiction, youll want to check to see if its grounded; considering its metal. Checking for dents, possible cracks, and rusting is also important. Aluminum siding should not be installed to make contact with the ground surface. This is definitely something to keep an eye out for. If you notice budging from the aluminum siding towards the bottom of the house, then this could potentially be a foundation issue caused by a number of issues.
We are looking at an electric tank style water heater that I saw at an inspection a couple of weeks ago. The water heater was manufactured 04/1992. I noted some water stains around the bottom of the top element cover and several areas that were rusted through the outer skin of the tank along the upper edges of the tank. Because of the age of the water heater; it being around 26 years old and the damage observed on the water heater, we suggested that the tank should be replaced.
When inspecting water heaters I start by finding where the water heater is located and describing the area in my notes. I take pictures of the full unit in its space. I take pictures of the parts for the water heater; TPR valve, hoses, shut offs, data sticker, flue, etc. If i find any defects, i will write them in my notes and take pictures of the defects. All i have to do then is to put my notes and pictures in my finished report.
This is an image of the water heater located in the attic of the home. I’ve read different opinions regarding if is accepted or not. The major drawback is water damage inside the home if the unit bursts or rusts out in the attic and the pan under the hot water heater can not handle all the water at one time which many do not. Extra measurements have to be taken into consideration if the water heater is left in the attic, Such as; Bigger drain pans installed under the hot water heater with high banks and extra overflow outlets to handle lots of water in case one rusts out or bursts is an excellent idea and should be use.
The water heater in the picture is an electric water heater. It has a electric disconnect, a TPR valve, a drain valve, and a water valve. The water heater does not have a drain pan. there are no signs of rusting, and The water heater is accessible.
In the article water heater expansion tanks it describes how an expansion tank assists the water heater by holding onto heated water while the water boiler is in operation. This helps keep the pressure in the tank stay within a normal range. After the boiler heats the water it is forced into the expansion tank through the pipe and compresses an air filled bladder inside the tank. The bladder inside the tank serves as a cushion and keeps air from absorbing in to water. Expansion tanks are considerably smaller than water tanks but vary in size, the usual expansion tank holds 2 gallons of water and commonly holds a pressure of 150 PSI that can be found on a label on the side of the tank. The tanks are installed above the water heater so that the water can easily drain back down into the tank and are best positioned vertically, but can be positioned horizontally if supported by straps. Water expansion tanks should be inspected for leaks, corrosion, and a proper installation, they are not a substitute for a TPR valve. In conclusion even though they are not required in all jurisdictions, water heater expansion tanks are useful in the process of heating water for your home.
This image shows a collapsed water heater draft vent. This could be caused from either tampering by a person who does not understand how the water heater drafting system works, or the weight of the vent actually collapsed the vent. Either way, a plumber should be called to correct the condition.
Expansion Tanks
I cant say that I ever understood what these did until this course. I have only actually seen them a couple times in friends homes. It is worth the added security to ensure that the pressure wouldn’t damage the piping system inside a wall and cause costly damage
As I inspect this water heater I will note that it is gas powered, its location, that only 1 water heater is present, the size and capacity of the heater, and the manufacturer (noting the age of the heater). I would check for any signs of leakage or corrosion. Check for proper shut off valves and TPR. It is also important to make sure the the water heater is functioning properly and is properly vented to the outside of the house.
Efflorescence for Inspectors
by Nick Gromicko and Ben Gromicko
Efflorescence is the appearance of salts on porous building materials as water (groundwater or rain water) moves through it and evaporates. It is an indication of a potentially significant moisture problem. It can compromise the integrity of the building material as well as indicate that the water might be moving to other parts of the structure causing unforeseen damage.
Are there any leaks? Look under the heater where the drip collection pan is (for raised water heaters.) If your water heater is on the floor look around the bottom area. Do you notice any sediment? Any standing water?
Look under and around the Temperature/Pressure relief valve. Any leaks? Corrosion? Obstructions?
Are there any leaks? Look under the heater where the drip collection pan is (for raised water heaters.) If your water heater is on the floor look around the bottom area. Do you notice any sediment? Any standing water?
Look under and around the Temperature/Pressure relief valve. Any leaks? Corrosion? Obstructions?
TPRV valve was leaking water at time of inspection. Thif this valve is functioning correctly it should show no signs of rust of corrosion. This hot water heater was 22 years old and had exceeded its life expectancy. This would be listed as a major defect on my report.
Temperature/pressure-relief or TPR valves are safety devices installed on water heating appliances, such as boilers and domestic water supply heaters. TPRs are designed to automatically release water in the event that pressure or temperature in the water tank exceeds safe levels.
If temperature sensors and safety devices such as TPRs malfunction, water in the system may become superheated (exceed the boiling point). Once the tank ruptures and water is exposed to the atmosphere, it will expand into steam almost instantly and occupy approximately 1,600 times its original volume. This process can propel a heating tank like a rocket through multiple floors, causing personal injury and extensive property damage.
This water heater is gas. It is 2 years old. There is. Teri valve and the pipe extends 6 inches from the floor. The gas valve is in good condition. There is no erosion on any pipes . Its is a4 gal heater
The plumbing under each sink in the house needs to be looked at. Look for erosion. Rust. Leaks. Need to make sure the pipes are put in correctly. If there is tape it needs to be wrapped correctly. Make sure to check under all sinks
