Attached are images of the neighbors water heater. I was able to get a picture of the water heater information as well as a picture of the TPR valve. Unfortunately I was unable to fully inspect it due to the fact that it was not accessible. There was a shelving unit in front of it as well as several golf bags. Overall from my limited observation it looked to be in good working order and there were no visible leaks.
I read the article “Anti-Scald Valves” by Nick Gromicko. I learned about the safety benefits of having an anti-scald valve installed in preventing hot water burns, especially in children. I was shocked at the amount of children that get burned from hot water coming out the faucet. With over two thousand children getting burned annually you would think that this would be mandatory on all hot water tanks but it is up to the authority having jurisdiction in your area. I think it is a no brainer and all hot water tanks should have this.
The attached photo is for my essay on the section How to Inspect Hot Water Heaters. This is a newer 240v electric hot water heater in overall good condition. There is a flexible stainless steel braided connection from the TPR going up to the discharge piping, which then goes down to its exit through the wall terminating outside. The piping is not clamped at any point which allows it to move back and forth. If the TPR were to not be seated properly causing it to leak the home owner would have a hard time telling it was.
Scrolling through the articles for this essay assignment I came across one on power strips. Power strips are in use everywhere and people are inventive. Some power strips have surge suppression built in and most have built in circuit breakers, however after this article I have to wonder if any have GFCI protection. Please read the article to see what prompted this question. Also look at the pictures. We all know how people have upgraded old two prong ungrounded receptacles to grounded that have no ground wire. Power Strips are a convenience for the homeowner so they can plug in and they tend to forget they were not meant to be part of a permanent installation.
This is an electric water heater in south florida that is coming a little over 11 yrs old, near the end of its lifespan. Overall, there is minor corrosion only along the top lid, where there are two different types of metal touching, which could either be from normal condensation (its located in a garage) from relative humidity over the past 11 yrs and/or a reaction of two separate metals interacting. The TPR valve and drain line are located appropriately, each thermostat is set to 125 F, and the electrical wiring is behind the panel (protected) and properly grounded. I would recommend that the water heater be serviced at minimum by a licensed plumber with the unit itself being close to the end of its useful life.
Visual inspection of newer water heater approximately 5 years old. Overall the heater was in good condition with no visible signs of deterioration. The TPR valve was intact and plumbed appropriately. To maintain equipment life it is recommended to blow the tank down annually in order to remove sediment buildup.
For this classes essay project I reviewed the InterNachi water heating dating chart. The chart provides data for some of the most common types of water heaters in use and provides instruction for decoding the age based off of the serial number. It is not required to age the water heater though may provide value to your clients.
This is a picture and essay regarding a recent water heater I inspected. Overall the electric water heater was in good condition. The TPR was installed with a drain line to the outside, however; there was no catch pan and drain line for that installed.
For the research portion I reviewed the articles on expansion tanks. What I learned was that it is not a requirement in every jurisdiction. The expansion tank must be located near the water heater and typically will be placed above in a vertical or horizontal position. If placed horizontally it must be secured so as not to put additional pressure on the copper pipes.
Water Heater Tank (WHT) Inspection Essay
Image taken of a Bradford White 40 gallon electric WHT. Tank is located in a mechanical closet along with an electric air handler. Louvered side-hinge door installed (open in picture).
The following was noted from the WHT inspection: water valve in place on the cold-water branch line, electrical panel is in direct line of site to the WHT (30-amp breaker noted but not pictured), temperature and pressure relief (TPR) valve on the top center of the tank, discharge pipe installed and discharges to the floor, brass drain valve, water leak catch pan, black device on top is a master water meter. Tank was manufactured in July 2010 according to the serial number letters GG taken from the label (checked on the Bradford White Serial Number Date Code Reference).
Observation: overall good condition without rust. No exposed wiring. Discharge pipe has been reduced.
Recommendation: contact licensed professional plumber to evaluate discharge pipe.
This is a water heater that was in a crawlspace. There was a puddle of water underneath the heater indicating that there was an active leak from the heater. It was also evidenced by the rust and corrosion at the bottom of the heater.
I read the article on Carpeted Bathrooms. Having remodeled many bathrooms, I never recommend carpet in a bathroom nor do I recommend laminate hardwood. The only advantage to carpet is not walking on a cold floor. The advantages to tile or linoleum far out way cold feet. If they want something warm to walk on, get small bath rugs for the spaces they stand or walk most.
Water Heater supply line leaking
The cold water supply line to this water heater is leaking at the brass fitting. It has a slow and steady drip.
The owner has placed a cup underneath the drip to catch the water. I would imagine this cup needs to be drained daily. Correction and further evaluation by a plumber is recommended.
hello all,Starting this course today.
I decided to read the article “ Water Heater Maintenance Time Line” so I might help my clients understand preventative maintenance they can perform on their water heater if they choose to.
Performing the following maintenance steps will help prolong the life of their water heater and allow them to spot anything that might be wrong before costly repairs might occur.
First and foremost it is important to read your owners manual and become familiar with your water heater.
Every few months drain your water heater 3/4 of the way to remove sediment build-up. Annually test your pressure relief valve and once every few years check your anode rod.
I found the article informative and believe the customer would appreciate a handout on how to perform these procedures.
This is a photo of an electric water heater. It is located under the home in a basement/ crawlspace. The discharge for the TPR valve is open to ground and there is no drip pan under the water heater. The water heater is balanced a ill crooked, but does not appear unstable. I may recommend to a client that to optimize the performance of the water heater engaging the help of a licensed plumber to ensure the heater is plumb and upright. There is no evidence of rust or corrosion damage to the unit.
Basic Waterproofing For Basements
Preventing wet conditions in a basement is a good way to reduce the risk of structural water damage. Moisture from the ground can penetrate even the smallest crack and create problems on the basement walls and foundation, cause mold contamination and /or wood rot. Ensuring diversion of downspouts away from structures can reduce the risk of water penetration. Proper grading away from a structure will maintain proper runoff of rainwater. There are several methods for sealing concrete to protect or repair the structure. One is an epoxy latex cement and another is a sodium silicate sealant. Using these tips can help a property owner keep out unwanted moisture in the basement and protect vital foundation components.
This hot water tank is to close to the furnace . Relief valve is not accessible. To many bends in exhaust could do it with less bends .
This is a TPR valve on an electric hot water heater. It is on the top of the tank. There are not signs of leaks on the bottom of it (Top of water heater). It is piped, and appears to have had putty used on pipe connection.
For the research assignment I chose the article under :commercial: “A Caution on Using XRF Alone for the Identification of Problem Drywall”
It states that XRF testing is a good method for the identification of strontium in a given wall. It goes on to state that strontium has been conjectured to be the source of a chemical reaction with the problem drywall producing corrosive sulfur gasses. It then states you should not rely solely on the presence of strontium to confirm it is problem drywall. One should follow up with other testing methods after suspecting it is problem drywall with the XRF method, and not use this method alone as a confirmation of problem drywall. Strontium could be contained in many other substances in the wall composition including the gypsum itself naturally, paint, and it is not the proven source of corrosive gasses emanating from the problem drywall.