Type B vents are suitable for listed draft hoods equipped, gas fired appliances and most domestic heating and hot water systems. The maximum temperature of operation must not exceed 480 degrees Fahrenheit.
Type L vents are approved for 570 degrees Fahrenheit, but can handle up to 926 degrees for no more than a 10 minute duration as may be the case in a short over-fire occurrence.
The inner wall is generally stainless steel while the Type B is galvanized steel.
Both vents are double walled and the vent type should be should be marked from the factory.
This is a 40 gallon gas watet heater.It shares a closet in the garage that is more than 18 inches above the floor. The closet has no ceiling and is open to the vented attic. The tpr valve has not been piped to the floor. There is no expansion tank present, but this is not a closed water system.
For research on this sectoin i looked at the article on anti scald valves. In the area I live they are required on new construction. These important devices should be installed in your childrens bathroom especially.
I inspection the hot water heater. Its an electric water heater with a 50 gallon capacity. It was in good servible condition and no visible leaks were visible. the all entry and exit points were in good condition including the temperature relief valve which was properly installed and drained into a 3" drainpipe. The pan the water heater rested on also drained into the 3" drainpipe. The water heater was elevated on a 24" platform in the garage. Both electrical and water shut offs were within arms reach of the water heater.
Problems with exaust systems - You must be sure both the air intake and exhaust vents are clear of all debris. This is primarily an issue for high-efficiency units, also called condensing or sealed combustion water heaters. Snow is the most common problem. In the winter months, snow can easily block or be drawn into your water heater’s air intake pipe. Another problem is small animals. Small critters like birds and mice might crawl in your exhaust piping because it seems like a warm and cozy place. Unfortunately, the exhaust gasses easily overcome these creatures, so now you’re left with a dead animal in your piping. If the water heater is blocked from the air intake side, not only will that water heater just plain stop working, but a blocked air intake pipe could also result in potentially serious damage to the water heater and its components. So you need to be sure that water heater gets enough air in to fire up and burn properly. If the water heater’s exhaust vent is blocked, then that heat buildup could very well damage your water heater. You could also be looking at carbon monoxide backup, which means you’re facing personal injury risks.
Lots of great information in the Water Heater Tank coarse. This picture is of a Tankless Water Heater. Inspector notes the presents of a natural gas supply and shut-off it does have a drip leg. Water heater does have isolation valves for servicing, recommend service once a year. Observed T&P valve is not plumbed within 6’’ of floor as required, this is a safety issue recommend repaired by a qualifyed plumber.
I chose from the library the article on water heater expansion tank which is necessary if your home is on a closed water system. If the home has a check valve at water meter or before water heater, as water heats it expands a expansion tank adsorbs this condition.
Pictured below, is a Bradford White 50 gallon electric water heater. Everything appears to be installed correctly. The tank is plugged into a 240 volt outlet, which is running on a 30 amp fuse within the main breaker box. There is a shut off valve present on the inflow water line. A TPR valve is present on the top of the tank, with a discharge pipe running down the tank and into the catch pan, which then terminates into the homes DWV system. The tank shows no evidence of leakage. The install date is conveniently written on the tank.
In this research exercise, I read the article “Water Heater Expansion Tanks.” In the article it discussed the functionality of a water heater expansion tank. Which is to absorb fluctuations of temperature within the water heate, which is directly related to fluctuating volumes. A bladder, cushion by air, within the tank fills as super heated water expands. Helping to reduce the possibility of dangerous excessive pressure building within the tank. The article also discusses how to check for proper I stallion and support of these tanks.
This photo shows some rust around heating element access panels. The rust is possible sign of leakage from a component of the water heater. Further examination should be handled by a licensed professional.
I chose to read an article on 10 ways to save on electric costs. Seeing as how water heaters are one of the bigger contributors to a person’s electric bill. Tanked water heaters are far less efficient than the on demand tankless water heater.
The image below is taken of a home’s water heater supply line with the appropriate shut-off valve. A “closed” water distribution system with a check valve installed on the main water line coming into the house requires a thermal expansion control device, such as an expansion tank. However, since this home’s water supply is not a closed distribution system, an expansion tank is not required.
Expansion tanks are becoming more common and even required, in many jurisdictions. As a result, it’s imperative that home inspectors are familiar with the purpose and function of these tanks. This article was very helpful in explaining the function of expansion tanks, as well as providing the appropriate conditions, concerning expansion tanks, a home inspector should look for while inspecting water heaters and plumbing systems.
This is one of the tanks I was able to inspection with a home inspector. The bottom of the tank busted and the water was everywhere. The tank was an older model and the tank rusted/cracked thus leaking the water out.
http:///Users/durieltaylor/Desktop/bust tank .pdf
rcamposano
(Ricardo V. Camposano, TREC 20157)
1936
This was a water heater inspected in a recently remodeled home.
The water heater was a new install old water was replaced
very important to note that in most occasions work is done
by owner and things are left out.
Cut-off was left out also though not noticeable because insulation
tube wrong diameter supply line were used restricting flow of hot
water to bathroom, also like to recommend that electrical line have
protective conduit(flex).
After inspecting this new water heater, I found a few defects. One: The top earthquake strap has been disconnected. Two: The TPR valve drain line is disconnected. Three: The TPR valve was discharging at the time of inspection and water damage has occurred to the wood base below. Recommending review and repair by a licensed plumbing contractor.
I read the article from the library about attic pull down ladders. Attic pull down ladders are often installed by a homeowner and not a professional. Because of this it is important to note if any of the structural framing members were cut to facilitate the installation of the ladder. Also the ladder steps need to meet the floor easily to ensure the hinges are not strained. Lastly, if the attic ladder is located in a garage, it likely is violating the fire wall.
During my inspection of the hot water heater, i was unable to get to the hot water heater due to the owner having so many things stored in the garage. I was able to take a pic showing the inability to get to the tank and in the pic you can see that it didn’t appear to be leaking because the floor was dry but the presents of a TPR valve laying loose on top and the white pipe connected to the discharge pipe indicates a past or present problem. i am referring this to needing additional inspection by a certified plumber.
During my studies into the library of inspection articles, i came across the article water heater dating chart. This will prove to be very useful as that it provides valuable info on how to get the date the device was made by showing where to look in the serial number for each manufacturer.
