There are many different mold types that can be found in homes and different health problems can occur depending on the type of mold to which you are exposed. There are more than one hundred different kinds of mold sometimes found in homes. One common type of mold found at home is Penicillium. Penicillium is often found growing on materials that have been damaged by water, including carpeting, wallpaper, insulation, and furnishings like mattresses. It’s one of the mold types that spread quickly and easily from one part of the home to another. Exposure to penicillium can cause allergic reactions, chronic sinus infections, and inflammation of the lungs. Usually appears as a blue mold and/or a green mold.
The picture uploaded shows the crawlspace area under a pier and beam foundation home. There are visible signs that water is running under the home in several places and also water possibly standing under the home. These conditions promote the growth of mold/mildew and can cause wood deterioration. The ground soil at the exterior of the crawlspace should be graded as to not allow water to drain/run under the home.
“Taking Air Samples for Mold”
This article has taught me the importance of properly sampling air to detect the presence of mold in a home. Mold can grow in a variety of areas that are not readily visible/accessible. Proper air sampling can help determine the presence and concentration levels of mold. This has also giving me a better understanding of the importance of inspecting homes that were previously flooded to insure a healthy home for years to come.
this picture shows an asphalt shingle roof with apparent mildew growth. This mildew deteriorates the shingles and will provide a pathway for moisture intrusion. I recommend repair or replacement
I’ve recently read an inspection article on “ways to save energy”. after inspecting quite a few homes built in the early to mid 1900’s, I’ve realized how easily the buyer could update the home to save. most importantly updating appliances, windows, and re-insulating where accessible.
The course prepares an inspector to take necessary, methodical steps according to IAC2 Standards of Practice for performing either a Complete or Limited residential mold inspection.
For this course I took a photos of a foundation wall located near a gas hot water tank. The wall has efflorescence in areas suggesting moisture penetration. Additional discoloration and negative slope along this wall may suggest the presence of moisture.
I would recommend a physical sampling of this material and, after discussion with the owner or buyer, may also suggest taking an air sampling for further laboratory analysis.
I read a consumer targeted article on mold titled, Mold, Moisture and Your Home. This article would be a good handout to give to clients as a home inspector upon completion of a mold inspection.
This article highlighted the basic understanding of moisture control, the ubiquitous (prevalence) nature of mold, ongoing health research and possible ways mold may irritate certain health conditions. The report also spoke to steps for both remediation and moisture prevention.
Upon a complete Mold Inspection I witness a, what appears to be mold on a vent cover. I would take a surface sample. I would also take an air sample in the room. I would take 2 outdoor samples also. It would be a good idea to check the ventilation system as well.
I have chosen Moisture Intrusion for my essay for obvious reasons for this section. The fascinating thing that I have found is that there are multiple ways for Moisture Intrusion that a home owner or building occupant would not typically think of. The part that I love is that not only do we get to find mold but we get to investigate how and why it is there. We then make suggestions to remediate the issue. We are not just the barer of bad news but their hero.
Here we have a picture of a moister leak and it is breaking down the wood and there is some mold because the home owners were not aware of this problem. I could tell there was something wrong by the smell as soon as I entered the basement.
I read the article Mold, Moisture and Your Home. This is a nice little article for both inspectors and there clients. It breaks it down in simple English what causes mold and how to prevent it.
As discussed in the mold inspection surface mold on bread is not just on the surface. Deep rooted mold is present in the bread and cannot be removed. Taking surface samples from obvious mold is the best way to test for a specific mold, which could be done to this piece of bread.
This picture was taken during a Real estate inspection and the house had been empty for a few weeks. Water had been flooding in during heavy rains and with the house closed up the house didn’t dry out, the humidity level rose and mold like substances started to take over on the carpet and walls. This was on both levels of the home and would require large remediation. Before the foundation company could perform their work to stop water penetration. I had to go back to my vehicle to get my approved mask after i walked in and the moldy &musty smells hit me so i could do the inspection.
I choose the article on Carpet Mold. To prevent mold from forming on carpet you should install carpet intelligently by placing it in areas of low humidity (not in bathrooms or on basement concrete floors), clean up water spills quickly and thoroughly dry carpet and pad out. If mold does get into the carpet it is usually best to replace the carpet and pad. Cleaning the carpet is very difficult to accomplish.
I read the paper on Moisture Meters for Inspectors in the library. Moisture meters are very important when conducting mold inspections. Meters can help determine if wood or drywall are wet or dry. Moisture is necessary for mold growth. Therefore, the absence of moisture in these materials indicates successful remediation. The two types of meters are a Pin type and Search type. In the pin type the pins probe directly into the surface to read the moisture present. In the search mode the unit uses electronic waves to measure the moisture below the surface. Some units have both capabilities.
Required Essay regarding the course:
The course was very enlightening. In many parts a bit unsettling now knowing the many types of mold. Basically, I see the need to look where water can congregate and where the humidity is high. I took a picture of the excess flow of the evaporater and see there is not a collection pan and directly exits the house for drainage. There was no apparent mold.
Article on Moisture Intrusion
Although mold can start immediately, it will take usually 48 hours for water to remain stagnant for mold to exist. What I found from the course and also the article I read, moisture is the key ingredient for mold. In my inspections, now I will need to take specific views on items prone for water and areas such as attic, utility rooms and bathrooms for moisture intrusion and potential apparent mold. Keep humidity low and ventilated. The mold levels should be no greater than what is outside. Water and moisture intrusion would certainly elevate these levels to a good environment to grow mold.
Above is a bathroom where a visual mold inspection was preformed. under the vanity was checked for signs of moisture intrusion but no evidence was found. There was however signs of possible mold growth in the bowl of the sink as pictured below.
There was also visible possible mold found in the caulking of the shower as pictured below.
Recommendations given to the client are as follows:
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probable cause of all visible possible mold is delayed housekeeping in the problem areas
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Frequent cleaning of the areas should be preformed.
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window in the bathroom should remain open at all times during and after use of the shower
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the ceiling fan should remain on during and after use of the shower.
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removal and replacement of the caulking shall be preformed to prevent further microbal growth.
Mold Assessment Essay
The photo image of the house component is of an attic-mounted air handler, providing gas-fired heat and electric air conditioning (cooling). There is a flue above the unit that vents the emissions from the gas heat furnace portion of this equipment. To the upper right is a white PVC drain pipe that removes moisture draining from the interior air conditioning coil, and deposits it into the drip tray at the base of the unit.
Since this unit is located in Florida there is no need for humidifier attachment, but at my former Maryland residence a humidifier was needed for use during dry winter months.
When this photo was taken the unit was working correctly, controlled by a thermostat in an adjoining room. There were no water leaks and no indication of a need to investigate for presence of mold.