Anyone seen this method before? I’ve never seen straps being used as shims. They’re always outside of and along the beam chord. My opinion is that since the joists rest on the lower chord shifting along the joist is impossible, therfore not an issue (the beam is sandwiched by the joist ends). It loooks like the straps arebeing used to keep the joists parallel to one another. I don’t think this is a concern but would your thoughts.
Cheers,
Mark
Looks like the joists are bearing on a 2x plate that is resting on the steel beam bottom flange.
Are the joists toe nailed into the piece of strapping to keep them from twisting at their botytom ends? Is there other strapping/x-bracing/blocking at appropriate intervals to prevent twisting along their lengths?
Yes Robert. That is the 1x3 you noted.
Yes Brian, x braces in place with toenailed joist ends into the strapping. I’ve just never seen the strapping shimmed bewtween a beams lower flange and the joists.
I don’t think I’d let that fly. It’s hard to tell from one photo, but it doesn’t look like the joists have adequate end restraint. And is everything just resting (gravity) on the bottom flange? No physical fasteners to the steel?
I just wanted to clarify that we were talking about the same thing, since the topic was “hurricaine straps”, and I would just call the wood at the bottom flange a plate or blocking. In some areas 1x3 or 1x4 lumber is attached to the bottom of ceiling joists to stiffen the framing and provide space for wiring (instead of drilling joists) … that is just called joist “strapping”
The preferred method for attaching joists to a steel beam is to use a packed beam or wood top plate, with simpson connectors, so that the joist loads are transferred directly to the vertical web of the steel beam. But for typical light residential loads joists can be supported by the flange of the steel beam, as long as the flange is thick/stiff enough to prevent it from bending down. And Simpson makes a special joist-flange hanger that is welded to and supported by the beam flange.
I dont see a significant issue as long as the joists are connected/nailed to the plate
Also the the plate should be bolted to the beam, or the joists on either side of the beam connected together (subflooring continuous across the beam or steel straps from joist to joist) to hold the joist in place against the beam. Also I would sight along the bottom of the steel beam flange to make sure it isn’t bending.
JMO & 2-Nickels … 
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Don’t like that first drawing for wire placement although allowed by some codes. When I was wiring, we always had to drill through the joists to keep the wires away from screws and nails, as you have to do when drilling wall studs.
