Let me ask some questions to help you understand that your asking.
What does an A/C do to make cool air?
It removes heat.
There are two types of heat; latent, and sensible.
Latent pertains to moisture.
Before the A/C can lower temp (sensible), it must remove Moisture (latent heat). There is 970 Btu/lb,h2o.
What temperature does the coil operate at?
Generally 40F, if unit is designed and maintained properly. This is just above freezing, so it is always operating below the dew-point of the air (especially in Fla). So we expect moisture to happen. If not, it’s probably not working right.
Where are you seeing moisture?
Is it leaking all over the floor or just sweat on the unit?
In your case it is on the unit. Whoever mentioned insulation, insulation is not to prevent freezing or condensation. It just slows it down. Under hot, and especially humid conditions the unit runs a long time and the unit will cool down below the dew-point temp often, thus condensation.
You have a small air leak where you see the moisture in your pic. This leak cools the cabinet faster as it is bypassing the insulated panel.
When the unit shuts off, condensation forms. It does not condense water while running because it evaporates faster than it condenses with the fan blowing.
You saw wet insulation. This is not a problem (it is simply water leaking back into the unit). Water does increase heat transfer and will make the wet spot bigger, but is not significant in this case.
Calling for service is up to you, but $75 for a piece of tape (to stop the air leak) is not cost effective as you have the tools (seeing you took this thing apart).
As for water leaks, there are only three sources of water issues; plumbing, building envelope leakage, and condensation. If you suspect condensation when diagnosing water issues, what is the dew-point and where is the source of cool that is below that dew-point?
For your case, any time the a/c runs in Fla, it’s operating below the dew-point of the ambient air, thus the source of temps below dew-point.
Insulation installed exterior of the unit (air duct, suction refrigeration lines, condensate drain pipes etc.) is preventing the ambient air from contacting the component, not stop heat transfer. This insulation should be a closed cell type as air can flow through fiberglass ect due to pressure differentials created in the operation of the unit. Use the wrong type and the insulation will be saturated with condensation creating a bigger problem than if it wasn’t ever there.
