Interior basement drainage system previously installed

Incompetent, fraudulent morons.

Homeowner out thousands $.
Why did they call my dumb az if all is well?

Where is that so-called LIFETIME WARRANTY???

Jesus people, homeowner continues to leak, seep DUE TO exterior cracks in block walls!!! It’s also why there is MORE efflorescence etc on most of the blocks inside.

Wouldn’t matter at all which interior system company installed their own dumb interior system, not B Dry, not Everdry, not Foundation Systems of Michigan etc etc!!


I see it all the time around here. When they install the inside system they typically do nothing on the exterior.

I enjoy your posts. I have some stories since I last typed (spoke) to you.
But I am sure you have seen similar.

I get it!!

Dave :wink:

And a FEW of these interior basement system companies will tell homeowner they ‘do’ (pfftt) some exterior waterproofing with the installation of the inside system but what those few do is, maybe dig down 1 to 2’ in one or two areas and they might put some plastic perforated drain tile in trench then put the soil back over it…that’s about it, no cht.

Most of these interior bubblehead companies TELL homeowners on the estimate they ‘do both’, interior and exterior but that’s a big line of BULL.
Have seen it, witnessed it decade after decade.

They bring it up to homeowners (exterior work) but will quickly tell homeowners one or more incompetent self-serving claims to get homeowners mind back on having an interior system installed. They say crap like, ‘Oh, its too expensive to do exterior waterproofing’ or, ‘Oh, we think it’s better for you (the homeowner) to have us install our interior turd system’ etc etc etc.

Dave, if you have any photos of interior systems on some of your inspections, please post a couple if you get a chance.

The ones that crack me up are basements with crawlspaces. They install the inferior basement system but the crawl space is a swimming pool, figure no one will look in there:roll:.

I have many pics but hard to find due to large amount of photos, when I come across some I will post.

Typically as well, the inferior system contractor does not install the electrical properly to the sump pump (extension cords), and no back up pumps (sump failure)

Dude if you were around here I could send a lot of business your way.
You would be or are already a great consultant!!

Photos ;-), no problem.

Crawlspaces, lol, yes sir. Another crock O’ cht.
They always want to encapsulate and never bother to think, hmmm, maybe, sometimes the water in the crawlspace is coming through the dumb blocks!
Like here…wall bowed in too, no exterior parging and check out the deteriorated blocks…
This homeowner used his MELON, had bids from 2 inside system turds.
They wanted $5,000 and $7,000 for a PARTIAL interior system.
Not sure what I charged but it was around $2,500…think it was 40 linear ft and had to saw cut concrete beforehand, costs a little more fer that, yep.

Even those with a pea brain should be able to look at those photos and see how NO interior system, no sump pump would have stopped further water from entering and would not have stopped further deterioration etc.

But the inside system owners, salespeople don’t care or are simply LOST aka incompetent and tell homeowners they need an interior system, some use the word phrase…pressure relief system, all the same type BS.

I have a pressure relief system and use it when a go in da bathroom. :mrgreen:

Thanks for the kind words man…and I would try and help anyone in Ohio who seeks honest info (talk to them on phone) and have been to Toledo a couple times to SHOW them what their actual problems(and solution).
Drove to middle of Pennsylvania a few years ago, did job there so, just depends on what homeowner has etc. Here’s number if you have homeowner(s) who want some info, 810-346-2955, ill leave it on for a day or so.

That’s a hll of a deal versus this guy in Ohio who wants $4,995 for 1 day or $50 for a 500 second chat or $97 for 15 minutes!! lolol what a crock
Excuuuuuse me, its $4,997 1 day lol

I drove to Toledo for free and showed HO’s exactly what their problems etc were and this guy wants $4,997 huh.
Bubba sometimes talks to HO’s on g dang phone for an hour, few times more for free, he wants cash. Yeah, maybe a better businessman but not an expert on this subject.

Crawlspace moisture problems and mold… home inspector, am sure he is trying to help inform, no problem there eh.
However, some HI’s just don not understand or understand enough that…many crawlspace WALLS were not parged when built and water often and easily enters through the dang walls, joints and then winds up on the dumb crawl floor, on or under visqueen.

Pretty often there are several things going on in crawlspaces that cause/allow water in, on floor. Right, its not all due to the poured or blocks walls!

But it sure seems few want to bring up, fully explain in these kinds of videos that water can certainly enter crawls through the stupid walls and pretty often homeowners will need x-amount of exterior waterproofing done to STOP further water from entering which can certainly cause some or a lot of mold etc in some crawls, hello!

These exterior cracks, gaps etc also allow radon, insects, mice inside.
Duh, ya see? jesus lol.

4:15 mark in video…says, there’s many times he goes in crawls and its wet in there, the walls appear like they’re leaking but its really condensation on the walls, condensation behind the styrofoam insulation…

Sure it can be condensation, no problem with that at all but other times it IS water entering through the dumb az wall(s). And so when it is why not add/say these homeowners will need some exterior waterproofing, huh? Oh, that’s right, lol some think its all about having the proper GRADE and rarely if ever does anyone need exterior waterproofing. #-o#-o#-o](,)](,)](*,)

:55 … ‘you want to seal it up’. Well? lol

David, if you need a local honest waterproofer, I volunteer:)

We don’t personally know each other but ole Steve n Bubbamilk have thoroughly yapped for years on a couple MB’s…far as the Milkman can tell, Steve would do a much better job than any turdball interior system company.

Steve, just posted a waterproofing article written by Angie Hicks, read it will ya and let me know what you think…you’ll see/read a few of my problems with it. Jesus, does that woman want the facts and truth on this subject or just its 'n bits.

Sounds good to me, I had an interesting inspection today.
They replaced 1/2 of a wall but there was a wall within & wall I just happened to be able to take a pic through the rim joist.

I would love to read the Angie review.

The trouble with crawlspace construction is that it’s more likely to have mold and wood rot problems than other types of construction. Both of these problems are types of fungal growth.
If mold is growing on the wood in the crawlspace, even in spots, you have problems. If it’s a white mold, it’s usually a surface mold, but consider it a sign that humidity levels are too high. White mold usually doesn’t cause real damage to the wood; however, if you see black or brown mold, that’s rot fungus: Structural damage is occurring that could require replacement of wood members. Immediate action is required!

There are a host of ways that a crawlspace can become wet, but in this instance we’re only dealing with ground moisture. We use what’s called a vapor barrier. Interestingly, the U.S. Department of Energy has revised this popular term, and now calls it a “vapor diffuser barrier.” It’s actually more correct, since in terms of a crawlspace we’re not laying not a perfectly sealed, seamless barrier. It’s just a way of slowing down the process.

               You'll first want to start with a crawlspace that's as dry as  possible. Then lay down 6-mil polethylene plastic from    [Drainage   Dallas]( over every single  square foot of your crawlspace. Overlap the seams by no less than 1  foot--a 2 foot overlap is sometimes recommended. Bring the plastic about  1 foot up the crawl space walls. Tape all seams down.       
               You don't need to really take measures to hold down the plastic,  because, after all, this is a wind-free (hopefully) zone. Some wind may through the crawlspace vents  come 

, so a few well-placed rocks on the plastic should hold it down good enough.

               Crawlspace plastic is easy enough to install. If you have a little  hatch, getting yourself and the plastic into the crawlspace may be the  hardest part of the job.

all do to… you hoo butt, since when does a gutter installation company become an expert on this subject?

BBB says you started your biz in 2009. is this 2039… huh? :mrgreen:

And as for the crawlspace in the photos…
… not new gutters nor a friggin vapor barrier or anything else on this planet would have fixed all the problems/openings in the block wall hence would not have stopped further water from entering the crawl and would not have stopped further deterioration of blocks. Exterior waterproofing was the ONLY thing they, many others need.

Fungal growth etc… hmm, so new gutters and extensions would have been ALL that was needed here too huh?

And what about here, mold on poured wall and drywall and insulation…

And here…

No gutters, longer downspout ext’s, no interior scumball systems, not regrading etc would have fixed/repaired these homeowners problems, nope.

Copy Paste Expert…

Mr. Hale, if you are speaking of Mark, please go ahead and refute what he says and the pictures he has taken. It would be interesting to say the least.
But, I suspect there will be no action as Mark knows of which he speaks. :mrgreen: