Interior draingage system

I thought I would share the pictures I took of the interior system that I just had installed.

It took 5 guys 3 days from 9 to 2 PM.

Messy and noisy.

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These photos are from day 2.

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These photos are from today.

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Welcome to sump pump land (if that is what this is). I hope this was necessary. I have a sump pump and although it works, I always think it is better to deal with drainage problems outside first to make sure that this is really necessary.

It is horrible being dependent on electric power.

I see, like me, that your sump pump discharges into the drain pipe, which I assume discharges to the road or possibly the public sewer looking at the pics. Although neat (mine discharges to the road) this may not strictly be allowed. Technically I should be discharging to my yard.

But then again, that is solid PVC pipe, so can this really be a traditional sump pump system? I am confused.

So what we are seeing is;
Gutter/rain directed to inside of house?
Routed to sump?
Then pumped back outside?
Help me to understand why please.

Ditto:D :smiley:

The sump has a hydro back up pump is case the power goes out. It is more reliable then a battery backup pump.

The sump is connected to the storm at the downspout.No water should enter the sump from the downspout as there is a check valve installed.

The building department made them install a back flow preventer at the hydro pump and the passed all the other components of the system…

The home I live in had the exterior done in 1999. I moved in the home in 2001. I had water come in thru the footer drains last year. I have an extreme negetive grade and I like the interior system in this scenerio.

This system has a lifetime warranty on water intrusion.

The reason I installed the system is I plan on finishing my basment in the next few years. I dont want to spend a lot of money & then have it ruined by water intrusion.

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Then you have our blessing. I wish they had given you a shiney, new sump cover though. It kind of lowers the tone of the place. May I recommend a coat of paint for the sump cover, or a clean?

Your basement walls are beautiful. I wish mine were so straight and new.

My whole house has a coating of dust & soot. Dust from the jackhammering and soot from my heatalator at my fireplace. I had my fireplace going so my furnace would stay off so it didnt get full of dust.

Now it is time to paint & clean. Went from 25 to 65 in about 10 hours.

Happy spring!!! Let it rain & rain & rain & flood & rain.

How does this hydro-pump system work without power, just the City pressure, and if so, what activates that valve to open when power goes out.??

Marcel :slight_smile: :slight_smile:


You will have water intrusion; thats why they drill the holes in the bottom of the block. They let the water in, keep it behind that little white panel they installed, and route the water into the drain pipe, into the sump and back outside.

I think its called Damp-proofing.


The float is set above the primer pump float.

I understand the system and I had it installed as a protective system due to last years flooding. Every house in this area had standing water including myself. I was fortunate that is was 3 inches and not 3 feet.

I have a large negetive grade towards my house and this is a better system for my situation.

My foundtion walls are in good condition but have some cracking due to hydrostatic pressure. The holes they drilled (About 3-4 per block) will release this pressure.

Ummm Mr Macy,

anyone recommend to you to FIRST have a plumber snake storm trap cleanout? Just wondering

you said the home had the exterior done in 1999. Was it done correctly? That means, did they use hydraulic cement in/over all outside cracks, did they apply a THICK asphalt (not the thin shtt-thats damproofing)…did they use 6 mil visqueen and then backfill with most/all gravel?

If they backfilled with some/most of same soil or didnt use hydraulic cement or thick asphalt/tar then they skimped/cheated homeowner and certainly could be why some areas still leak. Homeowners will see water come onto basement floor at cold joint-where bottom of walln floor meet BUT, dammmitttttttttt lol, the water is most often first ENTERING from outside and it stays inside the cores of blocks, goes through the lower courses where it eventually winds up in BOTTOM course, then comes onto basement floor(most cases). Sooo many HOs gettting blllchhtttd on this point! 90% of the time, the water one see`s entering onto basement floor…along the cove…is NOT from high water table/hydrostatic pressure under the floor, STOP that!

On the hand, “IF” it was WATERPROOFED correctly it could be that water is still entering through openings above-ground, gaps-spaces around any windows/doors and quite a few other above grade-pathways. Water that gets in-through these openings will often show up in basement…at cove, where bottom of wall and floor meet. Did anyone check/make sure THIS wasn`t where water/rain was FIRST-entering?

Back to supposedly having it done on outside in 1999…
was it done around-the-way-around? did they dig it all the way down OR, as some goofballs do it…was it dug a few feet deep/in certain areas and dug down to footing in other areas?

and… if it was done correctly on outside by an experienced-honest contractor…where the heck is the Guarantee? Should be a transferable guarantee on all-waterproofed-footage, im sniffing something and i dont mean my wonderful early morning farts.

you say ya moved in in 2001 and apparently went 5 years or so with no problems/leaks, until last year…right or no?

if they told you/have worded on paperwork that they… ‘guarantee no water-intrusion’ then they are on drugs or something :wink: . Inside systems do not stop/prevent water intrusion through cracks and other pathways/penetrations/cracks etc on the…outside. This is complete nonsense.

and drilling holes inside through bottom courses of blocks does NOT do ANYTHING for relieving/lessening lateral hydrostatic soil pressure, any kind of outside pressure…no it doesn`t, thats more nonsense. Anyone who believes this is more than several sandwiches short of a picnic

only thing drilling holes in blocks can do is… allow water that is entering into the blocks from the OUTSIDE a quicker/faster exit inside and into their water-diverting system. Water will still enter those blocks if there are cracks/any openings outside. Has NOTHING to do with relieving any outside pressure, sorry, thats the truth

lateral hydrostatic soil pressure is…when the SOIL becomes saturated-thoroughly soaked and expands. Again,the ‘pressure’ one needs to worry about/understand is from the SOIL that swells upon heavy/longer rains. Thats why peastone/gravel, sand if one has to, is the BEST backfill to have against-on the outside of basement walls. Again, drilling holes on inside has NOTHING to do with relieving this soil-pressure.

6th para…

4th para…

Some understand this, many do not. What do THEY say is the best backfill to have? Why? Because its the gravel/sand thats helps-lessens-relieves outside pressure as this type of backfill doesnt allow water to build up in it and exert the sort of pressure (expandn contract) that clays and silts will. Lateral hydrostatic pressure can cause cracks, leaks or even buckle a wall. DRILLING HOLES ON INSIDE HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH RELIEVING EXTERIOR PRESSURE! bllllchttt :mrgreen:

You may want to look at the guarantee on sump pump… if there is one it`ll be a ‘manufacturers’ guarantee, not the company who did the inside system and some of those sump guarantees are for 1,3,5 years…then what?

Shaker Heights Ohio, building dept… scroll down to WET BASEMENTS, see Q and A 1 and 5 especially

Sumps allowed? …not what they recommend. Preferred method for dealing w/damp and leaky basements is…outside…when its done ‘correctly’. quite often companies do a half azz job on outside, thus more problems/leaks

well, wish ya good luck there, hopefully you`ll have no mold/efflorescence etc in coming years and hopefully no cracks widening/bowing wall due to any REAL possible outside pressure.

ill bet there is no guarantee on any possible future cracks widening, discoloration of walls, mold etc. Is the guarantee worded something like this... "we guarantee no water/seepage on any areas of basement FLOOR where system was installed"

And Mr Macy, how much they charge ya? $5,000-10,000???