I recently inspected this home and this electrical box and found a double tap. The buyer had it fixed. But the fix was this. I thought a double tap fix needed the 2 hots to be running to 2 separate breakers. Here is the before and after photos.
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Those look like Sq. D breakers that are rated for two conductors. One on each side of the screw. The pigtail is fine too though, just kinda sloppy.
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Of the same gauge.
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Where does it say that?
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Actually a range.
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I thought I read it on the panel a while back.
Thanks everyone. For the future, what should I look for on breakers to see if they are rated for 2 hot wires?
Older, but good info…
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Sq. D breakers with that flat plate are always rated for two conductors. There is I believe only one other that allows it and that is the Cutler Hammer CH breakers.
Go online and look for a 360 degree rotatable picture of these breakers. You will see the markings on the side that tell you what can be hooked to them. You can also go look at them at the hardware store.
This is a Sq D QO but the information should be the same as the Homeline. The conductors can be different sizes within the ranges listed.
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Thanks for the resources to learn. I’ll have to take a look at the Cutler and square D breakers as well. If the breaker was only rated for one hot wire, would a pigtail like that be an acceptable fix, or would it have to run to 2 separate breakers?
Yeah, that one guy posted some very helpful photos!!
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A pigtail would be a code complaint repair for a double tap when the circuit breaker was only listed for the connection of one conductor.
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Think of it this way… The breaker protects both the downstream wire(s) as well as the end loads from over-current. So, if all three wires in the pig tail are sized correctly for that current, for example all are 12-gauge wires (or larger) suitable for a 20-amp breaker, then a total of 20-amps is available for the downstream loads. If the homeowner is constantly exceeding those 20-amps and tripping that breaker, only then would they need to install a new breaker and separate the loads.
BTW. The proper use of a wire nut will have the conductors fully-twisted together along the insulated portion of the conductors, as well as inside. It is obvious that a non-electrician (or lazy one) installed the pig tail. Good electricians will fully twist together the conductors using pliers to make sure they have an secure connection and clip the end BEFORE installing the wire nut - see picture.
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Nice looking splices. I’ve always pre-twisted splices but according o the wirenut manufacturer it is not required.
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I just learned something. On another thread, we discussed that we sometimes get incorrect information from experts that should know better. This is another one. Many years ago, an electrician told me that the conductors had to be the same gauge on those Square D breakers…and I have parroted that for years…sigh.
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Ditto that, and IMO, the reality is that what we commonly see as inspectors, is a drastic size difference in the conductors. The ‘allowed’ size range is generally similar and of little significant difference. Even though a range is allowed, I will continue to generically call out the different sizes as there are usually other problems going on along side that one. Heck, often the panels are so stuffed that I can’t definitively distinguish what sizes are actually in use.
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The pigtail is the correct solution. It should be of the same gauge and color as the 2 hots.
Dual brakers are never required.