Originally Posted By: jpope This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
How many of you would report what you see here, as something that should be corrected? Why, or why not?
On more than one occasion, I have been told that I am "too pickey" for recommending changes in the installation of these shower head configurations.
I have no intention to change my reporting method in these instances, I'm just curious as to whether or not anyone else believes this to be a problem - along with the "why or why not."
-- Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738
Originally Posted By: psabados This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff
Actually the goose neck on the shower looks more to be a retro-fit. Most likely a tall person is using the shower and wanted the water high. Shower heads are typically set a 6 feet off the shower or tub floor (plus or minus a few inches)
The purpose of the stall wall is to allow for water run-off and limiting moisture penetration to the drywall. Looks like a visible crack has developed along the rim of the shower enclosure and drywall. Depending upon the flange size of the shower stall water will penetrate behind the finishes leading to you know what.
A wall with ceramic tile would lead to damage at a faster rate.
I would flag it as a maintenance concern and point it out to the client while doing the review. Left unchecked, water behind the wall, damage framing and structural members, mold and other problems, like the stupid phone call saying how come you didn't find the water damaged floor joists all covered with mold.
Point it out.
My garbage disposal came with the same flex unit, lasted two years.
Originally Posted By: jpope This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
psabados wrote:
I would flag it as a maintenance concern and point it out to the client while doing the review. Left unchecked, water behind the wall, damage framing and structural members, mold and other problems. . .
That is my position as well.
Water running down the "goose neck" is directed back into the substructure.
This may well be the recommended installation for this particular piece of hardware, but that doesn't make it okay (the flexible tailpiece is sold at local hardware stores specifically for those "hard to line up" trap installations). I've seen many of these shower heads that provide the appropriate drip-loop which prevents water from flowing freely back behind the insert or tile and into the wall.
-- Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jpope wrote:
kmcmahon wrote:
It's installed per MFR. recommendations the way I see it.
Interesting. . .
As opposed to this?
This would be "per MFR recommendations," would it not?
Yes, manufacturer's recommendations, but against the code. The interior of DWV pipes should be smooth and not have any ledges or crevices where debris can collect.
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff,
I think you are missing a self-limiting feature of that shower head arm.
Granted, the pipe goes up from being in the wall (allowing water to run back down the pipe and into the wall), however, the pipe also goes back down to the shower head, causing the water to run down toward the shower head and not the other way.
Unless the shower head is leaking and spraying out the back, in which case it will hit the wall and run into the wall EVEN WITH a regular shower head and shower arm. That would mean writing up EVERY shower head and shower hear arm.
Originally Posted By: jpope This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jpeck wrote:
I think you are missing a self-limiting feature of that shower head arm.
I understand your point Jerry, but the same thing could be said for this shower head.
There are many variations of these in production. The better quality products generally have a built in "drip loop" design to avoid directing water behind the stall.
As a general rule for me, when the first bend is up, I recommend correction (just as I would if the head was leaking).
Obviously, the longer the initial horizontal run is, the less water will make it back. . .
I'm just looking a bit into the future when one of these stalls is removed for a remodel, and three years (of small amounts of water) have rotted the substructure.
-- Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff, I have to agree with jpeck, that the gooseneck assembly will prevent water from wicking back to the wall, and would add, that behind the escutcheon sealant should be observed. The head should have been installed above the shower unit to begin with and would have eliminated the gooseneck installation. If water should leak behind the shower, it would become visible downstairs because there is no framing behind the shower valve assembly and the trap system. It is a clear shot to below, wether it is a basement or a crawl space. Further, the access panel behind the tub , if it is, would reveal leakage if any.
Originally Posted By: bkelly2 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I call out the flexible waste line every time. Usually during the walk through i ponit it out as Dr. Seus plumbing (technical term). I will have to look at shower heads with a different mind set.
Originally Posted By: wdecker This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
If the shower has a complex mechanism (like those temperature limiting and/or consistancy valves) or is a single valve style, I will call it out (as a maintenance item) that there should be an access door on the back side. Usually the same for the drain area.
Same as when I see a whirlpool type tub (especially when you consider the GFCI and there is no GFCI breaker) completely enclosed (in tile, for gawd sakes) that has no access door. How the heck are they ever going to do maintenance or repair without ripping the whole thing apart. Imagine a quick (1-2 hr) plumbing job on the tub or the replacement of a whirlpool motor that should run pretty cheap (relatively speaking) and winds up costing over $2000 because of all the tile repair that has to be done.
Originally Posted By: bgentry This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I agree with Jeff on the shower head. Even if shower water is not running back to the wall, there could still be considerable amounts of condensation running to the wall. This is especially true for those of us that like our indoor temp fairly cold but our shower temp close to scalding. Over a period of years, a significant amount of damage could occur.
Originally Posted By: jmurphy1 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The original picture shows the shower head extending through the fiberglass wall kit. I see this a lot.
When I worked for a plumber I was taught that the shower head should be positioned high enough on the wall that it should be above the fiberglass wall kit and with enough clearance that a tall person can take a shower.
Originally Posted By: rray This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I believe that shower heads should be installed below the connection to the wall so that water from the shower head does not flow down the neck and into the wall, especially since I invariably find them loose.
I would write up the shower head in Jeff's picture.
I also write up flex piping used at drains.
I've never been accused of being too nitpicky or too thorough. Those who think so just don't use me anymore, but they never tell me why. 
I did have one Client who told me I was too nitpicky. She was going to gut the place and start over, so she didn't want all the nitpicky stuff. Just the foundation, roof, and walls. Didn't even care about the electric and plumbing.
(technical term). I will have to look at shower heads with a different mind set.