Hey everybody be on the lookout for these. Or even metal ones with all claddings not just stucco.
Dale - FRom the photo’s it didn’t look like a properly sized or installed KO.
Kick-outs are so important. Once the water enters the wall cavity it has no ventilation to let the moisture escape,which causes major damage. The defleckt product is once piece which is good. My only complaint is they’re so big they look ugly sticking out from the stucco unless you trim them down. Dales first pic showed no kick-out, the second pic had a host of problems besides the kick-out and appeared to have a copper metal roof above which should have a soldered copper kick-out. The third pic (apparently below this area) had window problems possibly along with a kick-out flashing problem above it. Is this the way you other guys see it?
those kickouts seem large but they can be trimed down alot easier then streching them. It seems fruitless when the step flashing only goes up the wall 2.5 or 3 inches. And when a retro is being done most of the time the stucco is so thin its is kinda tuff to use them. It is a very good product and would be best installed at the time the roofers are there. After all it is part of their installation.
What about the tar paper in back of the nail-fins?..
You mean where the installed the window and on the bottom nail fin the paper was over the fin instead of under it creating a funnel.
Thats what I’m talking about…:roll:
Seems to usually make a difference regarding water intrusion…
Just curious. Do you guys have any diagrams on how to run vinyl siding window trim? I have never understood how it can’t leak the way I see it done. Always looks like it would trap water big time.
And this one:
More at their website.
alum clad DH
This link has alot of good info if you have time to read all the post!