I came across this unit during one of my non fee practice inspections. My best guess is that this is a high efficiency boiler/water heater. The home has radiant floor heating, and there was no standard water heater to be found. Am I way off track here?
I happened upon that same site Jeff. It seems it is infact a boiler, water heater combo. That is simply something I have ever seen or frankly learned about up to this point so I just wanted to throw it out there. I searched the model # but just got a bunch of korean language sites and was unable to find this specific model. I believe the link you sent is basically what im looking at. Thanks for the response!
I think i see what you are talking about the sediment leg. Just before the yellow line in, the leg is out of line with the flow of the gas, which may create a small eddy in that area, but not function as a proper sediment trap. Needs to be in line with the flow of gas before going into the unit, and facing down so gravity can do its thing. Is that what you’re mentioning Simon? Also yes its an ugly jumble…
That dirt leg also seems awfully short. Also if im not mistaken arent the lines going into the unit not supposed to be fully rigid in case of seismic activity or other movement (as in have some flexible component)? Particularly on the line directly in the foreground. I recommend correction by a qualified plumber.
As a newbie its easy to step into a room like this and just see a jumble of pipes, but its cool to see and learn about different systems like this. Got to think it through carefully though…
Oh and the plastic cup placed inside the unit (might be hard to see in this picture) indicates that there may have been leaking, though none was observed at the time of inspection.
I’m with you on PEX pipe. I’ve only used Pro-press in areas where I couldn’t secure a spark and flame permit. The tool has a tendency to roll and jump during operation. Nothing beats a beautiful solder or braze joint.
Hey Saman The two problems I saw was the sediment trap should be located as closes as possible to the fixture. I would have located it just before entering the fixture and the other end would connect to the flexable appliance connector. It also needs to be located downstream of the isolation valve.
Martin, are the use of gate valves over ball valves acceptable in this instance? I thought I read somewhere that gate valves don’t always shut off the supply completely…
Also, I originally thought the drip leg was attached to this coupler and was confused by your statement! Seems like an optical illusion lol
I dont mind the “hint and then figure it out” approach. Its good practice. Seems like there is an infinite amount to learn in this field, and like with that drip leg, I remember learning those things, but its easy for the flood of knowledge to overwhelm my tiny little brain :~) Thats why I try and visit this forum regularly as part of my daily studies!