Sorry if this is a silly question. I am currently going though a new build as well as trying to become a certified inspector. I see People that fearmonger all sorts of stuff on the socials.
my builder pretty much ignored me on this issue and said this will not leak and is a non issue. The instructions say 1/32in gap between the insert and the tub and I would assume approximately 1/16. I can fit two credit cards but not a third. it’s only on the part that is outlined the rest of it is snug.
Non-issue. There is a flange on the tub that comes up behind the panel that prevents water from getting behind. (you can see the flange in the photo)
Sometimes the installer will caulk the very end, but that is just to prevent water from running in the groove, and out at the side, but that is the only real concern
More consumers (non-Inspectors) spend way more time on various social media sites than this BB. As a result many Inspectors are out there trying to display their knowledge and prowess to draw business. Some are justified and others are as Jeffrey says just “stoopid”!
Back when I was in the trades, the HVAC & plumbing company I worked for did 700-800 new apartments each year. Except for the 4 story buildings, everything else was 3 story buildings. They all had one-piece fiberglass tub/showers. Around here, two workers can carry 120lbs up two flights of stairs without any problems. Not sure why they would require a crane where you’re at.
its what happens when you have a few loud inspectors on social media feeding either bs or the truth… that’s why I asked. Sorry I am not as informed as you.
Sorry… didn’t mean any flaming of you at all. I should have been more clear on that. This stuff just annoys me at what inspections have digressed to. Your take on the social media crowd and the industry is spot on. And it’s really what the problem with this biz has been since I’ve been in it (25+ years). Everyone wants to thump their chest and say they’re better and smarter than the last guy. Basically, a bully crowd. A guy in Florida throws an online dagger at a guy in California and for some reason, thinks he’s elevated himself.
We’d all collectively do so much more to advance the industry if we’d show respect for one another rather than looking at every picture from an inspection and pointing out 7 things we think the inspector missed.
Morning, Josh. Hope to find you well and in good spirits today.
Looks like a two piece tub/shower stall arrangement.
No worries. They typically are engineered to fit sung and be water tight. Hot and Cold potable domestic water supply pipes and handle protrusions should be sealed.
Try to find out the manufacturer and the style of tub. From there you can download the installation instructions. That should answer you question.
Daniel Horton mentioned a flange. The tub mold/form has a built in vertical flange that fits snug against the structure. The flange creates a crucial barrier, preventing water from seeping up behind the finishing tile and up and into the wall cavity. It is a capillary break.
As long as you remind yourself to use the standard shower head, it shouldn’t be a problem. If you change the shower head for one of those removable handheld sprayers, it’s going to leak if you point it at the joints whether intentionally or not. How do I know? because I had a call back regarding this. Your average homeowner thinks the shower is 100% waterproof because its a “shower” so they should be able to spray where they want…yea…had to explain to them how the multipiece showers work.
Also, the outside end corners of the horizontal joints should be caulked. Even with a regular shower head, water can easily get into the vertical joint on the opposite side wall. The water runs down the vertical joint, hits the horizontal area at the top of the tub. Due to the water tension or w/e the water doesn’t like to drain out of the small gap left between panels at the horizontal joint and ends up getting pushed out of the end joints and causing damage to the nearby drywall.
Now, that doesn’t mean you can just have as large of a gap at the joints as you want because the larger the gap the less overlap, which is less water protection. I’d still call it out if the gap is 1/8 inch or larger. Remind the builder to fix it at pre-drywall so he doen’t have to tear the drywall out to adjust the panels or rely on caulking because of poor installation.
