New Construction & No Weep Holes

Lets see…
No weeps , no moisture barrier,soffit lights,hard roof intersection on the right side.

I hope they used green board on the interior walls .:slight_smile:

No way to seal up the outside corners where the brick and stucco meet except for backer rod and sealant, Like that is going to happen.

The roofers did not run the flashing up the wall high enough for the 2" clearance needed for the stucco and properly lapping of the moisture barriers. To name a couple other defects.

from a draw last week, they are getting ready to do the stucco. I asked the builder if they were going to trim back the osb from the concrete. He said to just process the draw and move on. :smiley:

And you said…? :-0

Do we really need moisture barrier?

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk164/cab1961/nomoisturebarrier.jpg

What happens when the stucco man gets there before the concrete guys?

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk164/cab1961/column.jpg

David,
Just laughed and shook my head.:smiley:

I don’t see how you can back out of a house built on property you own.

She screwed up when see cut the holes in the wall, all she did was spread the spores. Inner wall samples should have been taken at dampest spot. Differently needs an IR scan performed.
Last month I performed a mold inspection on a 10 month old condo on the back nine of a golf course. No weep holes in the brick, inner wall sample showed high concentration of mold. Furnace had mold growing on insulation of blower cabinet, high levels of considered toxic mold spread through out condo. Builder is not happy with what I found.
Weep holes are not common in my area. Ignorant builders keep my bills paid.

While I am not a big fan of legal action, I would venture to say she has a valid reason to pursue such. She owns the property but paid the builder to do his job correctly and build the home on her property correctly. If it were mine, I would want to tear it down and start over, and he or his insurance to pay for it - though I would want someone else in charge.

Joe

you started this thread last year.
Did this come back to life?
what has happened ?

I don’t know who re-opened this thread. I’ve heard nothing from the client in quite some time. I don’t know for sure how she chose to resolve the problem. I hesitate to ask. She’s also a Realtor and may choose to put this house on the market at some point and may not wish for me to know what she did or didn’t do.

mold does not mean a thing.

  1. no standard
  2. what is the occupant allergic to?

Thread was started over 4 years ago. I don’t remember her allergies.

exactly the point. it would not matter what she’s allergic to because she would need testing, along with the house, and there’s no unacceptable level.

completed an inspection last week with a radon test. the tenant complained that she has allergies and that running the a/c with the closed windows would worsen the condition. I told that the pollen counts are always higher at night through the earlier morning. the landlord cleaned the filter. no complaints. guess why? She said she always opens windows instead of a/c.
have a great day

To bad you never went back to see what was done.
Hard to get them to call back.

I have one client that refers me all the time but I only recently found they had to pay for tons of works on stuff I had found but did not get negotiated.

Mr.Funderberk you have posted before on weep holes. It is a tricky call and the architect is the main man to the detail.
You guys always build on grade?
Foundation should finish a minimum 8 inches above grade on all sides…
Suspect: water infiltration
Cause .Foundation elevation and Veneer elevation from grading is to low. xx inches. Looks like zero.
Lack of weeping ability for the veneer.
Suspect: No or improper flashing.
Recommendation. To trench the area sounding the foundation a minimum of 6 to 8 inches.
Sloped residential building peremptory too 2 low ends for water collection.
Install a dry-well at both termination points of the trenching for water collect and slow dispersal into the loam…
Possible Suggested repair.
Examples:#1 Void to be filled with a geo-fabric then clean aggregate. ( owners desired circumference and color. 1/4, 1/2 inch ) pea stone
2# or a layering; geo-fabric on the bottom of the void as the first example explains. Standard aggregate 1/4 1/2. 6 inches high, geo-fabric on top and and ceder mulch above the grading by 1" inch. Settlement will occur. Maintenance needed for ceder mulch.
Recommend a licensed mason redo the bedding CMU ir cement stone joint at the foundation sill plate.
Repair: Cut a curf 1-1.5" deep and apply a 5/8" or thickness desired backer-rod and apply polyurethane caulk.
Install anti bug weep vents every 8 feet.

See if you can find the architectural prints and what the call was for on the veneer Mr. Funderburk.

Re-inspect the home after 6 weeks for moisture intrusion. As long as the sill plate and any moist wood has had time to dry.
Recommend:Mold inspection can be carried out before and after the repair.

Look at downspout location Mr.Funderburk. Is the area of concern near the exits. I know you are s seasoned HI. Just thinking to myself.
Weep holes on residential buildings are few and far between in my area. Montreal Canada.
High snow and more probability of damage to brick surfaces and masonry bedding.
Its the distance from the grade that is the key in the veneer’s placement, or the deficiency. Same as last picture I commented on a couple of months ago Joe. The veneer is to close to grade.
If weep-holes where installed and the foundation and veneer are at or near grade level, more water would enter the void in the weep holes. Only weeps to counter a bit of this are bug stoppers.

post# 37
Forgot to mention.
Dry-well is if there is to much water pooling.