Originally Posted By: jkline This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I find brick or stone veneer walls frequently that have no weepholes. I write them up, and without fail- the question from the client is “So how would you fix that?”
Originally Posted By: rcooke This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
jkline wrote:
I find brick or stone veneer walls frequently that have no weepholes. I write them up, and without fail- the question from the client is "So how would you fix that?"
Any suggestions?
Look close many years ago they built homes with a wick instead of weep holes very hard to see they used a piece of rope I believe it was hemp still works . they could be rotted of but If the home has been built for along time I would not be concerned .
What I do is just write no weep holes found and move on with my inspection . I also find many weep holes filled I again write it up as some one has filled the weep holes and that they should not be closed .
Originally Posted By: dandersen This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Quote:
Dangerous!
if not careful you can put a hole in the membrane.
Why recommend putting them in now?
It's like reporting there might be tornado damage to the house in the future. Yes, there is a likelihood to do more damage than good recommending these repairs.
Originally Posted By: ccoombs This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I see developers paying more attention to this subject on the new construction. I’m not sure if it is damage or lawyers driving the change.
One thing I keep in mind when providing a fix (on the engineering side of things) is sometime the fix is worse than the problem. In this case I would think monitoring the issue. If/when a moisture becomes an issue, remove, repair, replace.
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
No weep holes in the brick, recommend a brick mason Contractor to come in and inspect and rectify the problem.
The answer, if visual inspection dose not show any cut off flashing at the bed joint of the first course, chances are it is not there.
It has occurred in the past years where there was flashing and weepholes were not provided. In this case, you actually drill a 3/8" hole in the mortar joint one course above the assumed flashing course of bricks.
Originally Posted By: rwand This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Before you give any advice on repairs it would be a good idea to establish how old the house is and the foundation.
It is not uncommon for 30 year old, plus houses not to have weep holes. Most homes with concrete block foundation do not always have weep holes installed. Double brick or solid masonry homes do not have weep holes.
Without knowing the age and foundation type, and construction of walls, there is much guessing. Weep holes are now required in all new construction consisting of brick veneer. At least in my parts.
Raymond Wand
Alton, ON
-- The value of experience is not in seeing much,
but in seeing wisely. - Sir William Osler 1905
Originally Posted By: rcooke This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
mcyr wrote:
![icon_smile.gif](upload://b6iczyK1ETUUqRUc4PAkX83GF2O.gif) ![icon_smile.gif](upload://b6iczyK1ETUUqRUc4PAkX83GF2O.gif)
I am very well aware of those conditions. I only respond to the question at hand and no more than that unless I am asked about specifics.
If it helps you understand, I was a Masonry Foreman back in 1973 on Commercial Jobs.
Marcel
The bricky was the greatest guy for me on the construction site .
He could make my work go easy or hard .
They always where trying to let me know when I was not around to remind me to get my pipes ready for plugs receptacles and feeds where required.
Give the bricky a hard time and suddenly there was a finished wall with out your pipe in it .
Be Happy Join NACHI........ Roy Cooke sr .......... RHI
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
You got it right smack in the bulls eye.
One thing about the company I have worked for the past 35 years, is that we work as a team and this @#$% does not happen or we will not let it happen.
I also came up with the acronym about 3-5 years ago on the safety logo, FACE-IT. F for falls, amputation, crushing, electrocution, I has something to do with blood and T for TEAM WORK. Believe me, as a Team, we can all perform to excellence, and help each other. I believe this is what NACHI is all about.
Originally Posted By: rwand This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi Marcel
In case you thought my comments where directed at you, they were not. My comments had to do with inspectors posting questions without supplying information that would result in informative replies. Often questions are asked without indicating the age of the structure or system. Knowing the age of a structure/system amongst other things is important because many times building codes did not apply to older structures and codes change every few years as better building techniques evolve. Giving answers that relate to newer techinques is irrelevent in relation to older structures that pre-date the latestest codes.
Cheers,
Raymond Wand
Alton, ON
-- The value of experience is not in seeing much,
but in seeing wisely. - Sir William Osler 1905
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
You are right Raymond, to state that the age of the building will make a difference on the call.
Over the years, brick flashing went from none at all to fabric, copper fabric, to a rubberized poly, to straight copper and a variety of other products on the market. Some have not proved out and some have.
No weep hole situation would still indicate that moisture is trapped in the cavity, and still would recommend that 3/8" holes be drilled one course up just incase there is a flashing. Drilling under the first course might reveal that there is a flashing but would also damage it.