My mother had this roof installed a few weeks ago and she asked me to check it out once they left. Im still learning a lot but I found quite a few areas of poor workmanship. The roofer is arguing with me about the issues and I want to confirm something. In the pictures, you can see where either a piece of flashing or a shingle used as flashing once was on the trim. When the old roof removed, nothing was put in its place and they used silicone to fill the gap between the shingle and the trim(not fully). He told me there was nothing wrong with it.
I see wood-like trim in contact with shingles. It will wick moisture and deteriorate.
Can’t tell from here what else is going on. I would consider the small opening in the 3rd photo, the drip edge, to be inconsequential if it’s covered by the shingles.
The drip edge is wrong. The underlayment would be over the drip edge at the eave. It’s correct at the rake though.
Is drip edge required everywhere? It is here.
Roof flashing at the eave and rake is supposed to go, in order:
- Ice & water underlayment along the eave.
- Eave drip edge.
- Underlayment up the rake side of the sheathing.
- Rake drip edge.
- Then shingles.
Sometimes there’s a ‘2a’: Install another layer of underlayment over the underlayment and drip edge installed in steps 1 and 2.
In the photos, the installer merely bent a piece of drip around the corner of the eave and rake, and tore the metal in the process. Poor workmanship, and I’d make him do it again (or call it out in an inspection).
As for the first two photos, he clearly left out any sort of flashing between the lower roof and bargeboard.
I would call out both of those items. They removed the old step flashing at the rake return and didn’t replace it. The drip edge is lapped wrong at the corner, and the shingles should be sealed or nailed into the drip edge. That would not pass a final in Florida.
Thanks for the replies and confirming what I was thinking.
Of course to be able to position the felt properly the rake edge of the flashing must be over the eave flashing.
The cure for this would probably be worse than the problem (more likely to create a bigger problem than the one that they are going to cure). This defect is better to avoid than to fix IMO.
I would run the shingles under that fascia rather than try to flash it. If the shingles are continuous under the fascia, then the roofer is correct. The fascia should not contact the roof surface, but don’t expect the roofer to cut back the trim so that it doesn’t contact the roof.
What kinda of flashing would he use against a fascia board with no counter flashing? A good sealant would work.
Fascia should not contact shingles on that little return down to the right. Step flashing should be visible along the sidewalls with a gap of at least 1.5 inches between the shingles and the bottom of the rake trim.
In his defense, the roofer probably didn’t install the fascia and wouldn’t normally consider it his job to recut fascia in order to install the shingles he was hired to install.
The shingles are run under that fascia. There’s no fascia flashing (or sealant) needed. The problem is the lack of space between the shingles and the trim along the sidewall, and the apparent lack of step flashing at the sidewall.
I think you guys are forgetting that behind that fascia board is the sub-fascia, which is usually directly fastened to the roof deck. You can’t just slide the shingle under this. That rake return to the ridge will rot very soon without flashing, which is why it was there originally (on the outside of the fascia board). A sealant will not work.
Not always, Brad. A thinking carpenter will stop sub-fascia short of the sheathing for just this reason, without affecting the structural integrity of the roof.
I suppose so if the gable was dropped and structural outlookers were used. Even so, on small gables such as dutch gables, you won’t normally see a floating sub fascia with the shingles slid under, at least down here in the Great Green South.
Hey Man! I’m south of you about 800 miles
And we’re both better off than the staff at InterNACHI in CO where it’s freezing cold.
Here is how they “fixed” the flashing problems. This is still incorrect. Am i right? They used the drip edge flashing to “fix” one area