Originally Posted By: Ryan K. This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi there-
This board is great, I've spent hours soaking up all kinds of knowledge already! Now I am going to have to ask some opinions about my new project.
I live in WI, where the frost line is 48". I plan to build a multi-level deck (only 1 step down, nothing fancy) this summer of AC2 pressure treated structure and cedar decking. It will be around 200 sq ft. I'm torn between using a ledger or building a free-standing deck on concrete footings. I consider myself reasonably handy, but the thoughts of water and insect damage through a ledger scare me to the point that I think I'd rather just spend a little more time and money on extra piers and build the deck free-standing. The drop from the patio door sill to the ground is only 18", so there would probably be little to no siding left under the ledger. The ground gradually slopes away so I do believe having one step down for part of the deck is do-able. The house is only 2 years old, and I was there to see it put together, so I'm not afraid of the structural ability to handle the load. I just figure that it might be better to isolate these two structures.
My only real mental block comes with figuring out how to attach the rim joist along the house side of the deck frame. Since it will butt up against the house, I can't swing the hammer and nail it into place. Do I nail/screw the rim to the joists and then slide everything back into place?
I had the local Menards plan the deck, and I must say they do a great job. The computer estimates it all, then the guys go over it. Everything is measured out, from footing locations to joist spacing, etc.
Just looking for a little confidence before I buy truckloads of lumber!
Originally Posted By: dvalley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I’m no carpenter by no means but I can tell you that every deck must be attached to the building at the ledger area. They can not free-stand.
If I were to build a deck on my house, I'd secure the ledger board first, then add the joist hangers at 16" on center then I'd frame in my rim boards on the ground to get my footing locations, then I'd pour my footings below the frost line. Then finish framing around the support posts that will be setting atop the footings.
Originally Posted By: ecrofutt This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
David: Perhaps you should google “free standing deck”??
Ryan: If you attach it to the house, the easiest way to support your joists are with "joist hangers". Google for more on that. DON'T FORGET to put flashing between the house rim joist and the deck rim joist. That's what keeps the house rim joist from rotting. No exposure to water if flashing is properly installed. Do not nail the deck rim joist to the house. Lag screws or bolts only.
Originally Posted By: rsmith5 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Whoa! Who says a deck can’t free stand? What do you gain by attaching it to the house except saving on a few support piers? As long as the footings are below frost grade it will be fine as far as staying put.
If you dont attach then the problems caused by moisture go away.
Originally Posted By: Mark Dudley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
If you attach it to the home, you absolutely MUST make the deck as solid as the home is, or the two will move independantly of each other.
That means if you attach it, you cannot use 'deck blocs' to support the rest, but must make your footers the same 48" (or more) to get below the frost line.
I'd suggest building it free standing, but use the standard frost depth footings anyway, it will make for a more solid deck.
As for the joist, you're going to use joist hangers on both ends, simply spiking the joist to the rim board is no longer acceptable.
RE: free standing decks, not only can they be free standing, in many cases they MUST be free standing and MAY NOT be attached to the home.
Originally Posted By: Ryan K. This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thanks for all the input. I already checked with my building inspector and was told either way is acceptable around here. I did a little math, and figured it would cost something like $30 more to do it free standing. Since I’ll have to rent an auger anyway because of the large number of piers I’ll have to place, I figure a few more won’t hurt and will give me a little more piece of mind by having my deck and house separate. With the tough winters and all the bugs that hang out in the country out here, I think I’d rather leave the siding uncut.
Originally Posted By: mkober This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Ryan,
Freestanding is the way to go--no butchered siding, no entry points through the house's rim joist, etc. And use the correct size joist hangers--had an inspection this past week on a brand-new, $600,000 house with multiple decks, and every single joist hanger was under-sized (made for 2 x 4's and 2 x 6's, but all of the joists were 2 x 8's). And most of the support columns were no-where close to being centered on the concrete piers--picture a 6 x 6 with half of its width suspended over thin air, the other half bearing on the edge of a 12" dia. pier. Accurate layout is extremely important. And don't skimp on the railing post attachment detail--more than half of the decks I inspect have posts that are wobbly to the point of being very unsafe. The Feb 05 issue of the Journal of Light Construction had an excellent article on post-to-deck connections involving the use of steel brackets (Simpson Strong-Tie) and 1/2" dia. through-bolts underneath the deck planking, at a joist, to provide a bullet-proof post connection.
Who says a deck can’t free stand? What do you gain by attaching it to the house except saving on a few support piers? As long as the footings are below frost grade it will be fine as far as staying put.