The GFCI outlet tool is an important tool to use when checking electrical outlets. you use it to distribute the safety of the outlets uses. you can also reset it to see if the outlet is able to trip for safety reasons
Pictured here is a corroded piece of a plumbing system. Though I wouldn’t speculate as to the cause in my report I suspect that this problem is due to a poor connection being made between the pipe and the valve. If this section of the system isn’t already leaking it is likely that it will be in the near future.
I read the following article on pressure assist toilets:
I found this article interesting. Pressure assist toilets may be more environmentally friendly than traditional gravity operated toilets and are likely to become more and common in homes. I wasn’t aware that these toilets are used in the residential setting but I did work on a commercial fishing boat for a while that had these types of toilets installed.
The wall behind our kitchen sink does not continue all of the way to the ceiling. So in the cabinet under the sink there is an AAV to vent that drain. All of our other fixtures are vented to the main through the roof.
I read the Sewer Gases in the Home article. There are a lot of homes that have floor drains in the basement that do not see water regularly and the traps dry out and they end up having a sewer smell. The other thing that people seem to miss is that their AAV has failed and is allowing sewer gas into their home. They may not even know that it is there or what it is.
Starting the residential plumbing course. I expect it will be as good as the other courses have been.
This a common electric water heater and its installation in a garage. Access to the water heater is unencumbered. it is equiped wit ha pressure tank as required by local code. The fittings are of the proper type and do not seem to be leaking. The tpr valve is noted and intact but the drain from the tpr is not of the prper material and not suited for hot water and should be replaced by a plumbing contractor. Also its length brings it too close to the floor and the drain pipe length should be shortened.
After looking at my own water heater installation
I was able to observe that the installation itself was not done according to the standards. The drain tube fro the TPR is too long and almost exits at floor level and is made of plastic pipe which is not suited for hot water use. The arewa however around the heater is suitable and the pressure tank and fitting is also to standard.
The attached picture shows a couple of issues.
Beside the gift wrapping and old carpet around the gas fired hot water tank and gas furnace I pointed out a couple more items. There is a gas line shutoff to the hot water tank but no valve to the gas furnace. You have to go to the outside gas meter to turn off. Neither fixture was equipped with a sediment trap on gas line.
Discharge Pipe on TPR Valve:
Recent inspection of a gas fired hot tank, I found that a discharge pipe was installed on the TPR valve however the pipe was not installed plumb but on a slight angle. The slight angle on discharge pipe put the end over the access panel to tank burner and thermostat. If the TPR valve was to open the water would have discharged directly on the thermostat and possible into the burner access. Probably causing more than just a tripped valve.
When evaluating vent clearances on the exterior of a building, an inspector should look for direct vent clearances of 6" from air openings, or 9" for an appliance 50,000 BTU/hour or more, and 12" above grade. If the appliance has a mechanical draft the clearances should be 4’ below or horizontal of doors and windows, 1’ above doors and windows, and 1’ above grade and from gravity air inlets.
The discharge pipe on a TPR valve moves the water that is released by the TPR valve safely out of the appliance. The discharge pipe should be set at 150 psi and 210 degrees F of approved material, the same size as the TPR valve, drain by gravity flow, not trapped, not directly connected to the drain system, and with no tees or valves. The pipe should terminate within 6" of the floor, or an indirect waste receptor in a way as to not cause scalding or property damage, and readily visible by the occupants so it will be known that there is an issue. The pipe also should be piped independently of another piping.
In this photo, the finishing pieces had been removed from the faucet in a shower/tub unit. Upon closer inspection, I determined that the faucet had been stripped and the water would no longer run. There is also no access panel to the faucet from the rear of the plumbing. A qualified plumber will need to be contacted for repair.
I chose the curbless shower picture located: https://www.nachi.org/gallery/?level=picture&id=2180
In this picture, Several items need to be checked:
- There are two faucets, One controlling a showerhead on the wall, and one overhead. Both should be checked for flow and operability. 2. The slope of the floor and bench seat should be checked to ensure that water does not drain into the open floor area. 3. The open floor area should be checked for signs of water damage. 4. The shelving should be noted as potential weak points. 5. the floor drain (and surrounding area) should be checked for signs of water seepage into the sub-flooring.
Exterior sillcock used for water delivery through hose, noticed leaking at the sill, needs repair or replacement to prevent freezing during the winter months, also noticed sill is not the frost free type recommend installing frost free type sill ****.
I studied the use of a back flow preventer on the supply side of a hot water boiler. the back flow prevent also known as a check valve is used to allow the flow of water in one direction and not go back into the cold water supply
Regarding the attached photo showing stairs with more than three (3) risers. There is no handrail and creates a safety concern. It was noted to have a qualified contractor estimate and evaluate to ensure this is no longer a safety concern.
Regarding the electrical section of the posted articles it states that INTERNACHI standards are that we as insepctors only inspect a respective number of outlets. However we are to inspect all Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter outlets through out the home.
The lavatory trap, waste piping and water supply valves and pipes are in good working order with out leaks. The drain stopper works and water drains at a acceptable rate. The hot and cold water valving are on the correct sides.
Good call, Scott. I call out a handrail when there’s more than 2 risers. It’s a good thing that we’re not code inspectors.