Roof framing

Tell me… am I missing something or is this work a POS?

Scabbed on pieces, doubled up framing… this was built in 10/2005. :wink:

I’ve thrown in some photos of the shingles as well… and they think new homes do not need to be inspected… :roll:

ohhh for the hell of it check out where the panel is grounded to the water pipe… which is plastic… :shock:


Built in a rural area?..unreal…:shock:

County building inspector, doubling as dog catcher when business is slow…:smiley:

In my rural area…it is quite possible the inspector built it.

But look at all the money the builder saved. Unless he has to fix it.

“Do it once but do it right”


hopefully the electrician was “bonding” the water pipe and not using it as “grounding”

I don’t really see what the fuss is about. The added rafters and scab may habe been to make the roof sheathing breaks work. Two rafters are stronger than one. Minor gaps at the rafter top cuts. Undersized ridge, but I often see homes that have been standing for 100 years with no ridge at all. In many arreas the engineer would have required hangers rafter to ridge. Not clean framing but it looks structurally sound to me. Builder took low bid or it was framed by the homeowner. I wouldn’t even mention it.
Roof- I see a ridge vent but no missing/damaged shingles. Maybe a little ice.
Plastic ground eh? Well shoot, write that puppy up. I’m sure you did, Jeff.
When I see low quality work I usually think low budget/ low quality. Not everyone has a lot of money.

Very good Jeff;

Too bad to think that this goes on in our neighborhood.

Must have been Carpenters that applied for a job last week on my job and lasted four days. They can make more money doing work like this on their own than work for someone that knows what he is doing.

Marcel :slight_smile: :stuck_out_tongue:

I ran out of spots for photos… it is hard to see the roofing. The shingles are all lifted up towards the ridge… but throughout the roof there are spots of roofing tar…

the electrician got back to me and stated there is a ground outside to a rod… OK fine… (could only see the conduit but wanted to make sure)…

The rafter framing is just plain sloppy… Keep in mind this is NEW construction

Here are some additional photos of the roof… :wink:

roof 008.jpg

roof 006.jpg

those pics of the shingles are much better, looks like pretty sloppy work, notice how high they are riding above tab, and you could see some nail pops on the first pic, that tar is probably from someone getting a little wild with the nail gun and not replacing their goof up, just slap some tar on those errant holes!

Would it be possible than for once, a Roofing Contractor followed the Roofing Manufactures instructions that are on most packages or bundles.

Installation of this product on a 6/12 pitch or greater requires dabs of roofing cement under the tabs in order to qualify for wind damage.

They miscalculated the bottom of the tab.

Marcel :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

Marcel is that true? I have to do some research then… I personally have not installed shingles on anything greater than 5/12…


Jeff; I will get you the reference. Tried but the computers were off line, I will try tomorrow.


There is actually a very fine guide line of paint on that type of designer shingle.That line is a guide for each following course and is indeed a good 1/2" above the “tab” line and intended to be that way

I was going to say that having been a framer at one time in my life, I can recall having to scab on 2x4’s so that the sheathing would work out. Put a tape measure to the spacing and I’d bet that the spacing is off. I never put roof trusses in place…so it wasn’t due to my intellectual frailty.

A ground rod is only part of the grounding electrode system and not a very effective part in many cases. There must also be either additional ground rods (at least 6’ away from others) or better yet water main or building ufer ground.

the water line is plastic as far as I can tell… the electrician reported back that there are 2 ground rods… but I could not verify this… there was only about 5-6 feet total of copper pipe in the house… the rest was pex or similar…

either way I guess… this installation looks like $hit… :wink:

Hi. Jeff;

The only thing I could find on the statement that I made on roofing tab sealants that might be wrong was this.
To stop the initiation of damage, it is imperative
to keep the exposed shingle tab sealed to the
shingle below and to the rest of the roof deck.
Applying roofing cement to the outer roof edges
by hand, properly locating and applying nails in
shingles and taking care to assure the shingle’s
self-sealing adhesive strip is properly secured will
help keep the tabs from lifting. The guidelines
include practices to reduce shingle blow-off and
improve water resistance if some of the tabs are

Read the instructions on the Certinteed Roofing being applied on my job today, and it was a 30 year Architectural, and stated what I said in my post, but was only for high sloped roofs which is 21/12 or greater.

Some where along the line I have come across the fact that 6/12 or greater needs this additional tab cement. It might have been a cheaper or less expensive shingle. When I find which one it was, which would mean me stumbling on it again, I will inform you.

Marcel :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

Hi. Jeff Cambell;

I responded but do not know where it went. ha. ha.

This has to be funny. I am still trying to master this darn thing and it is not going to happen. It probably ended up in electrical somewhere.

Don’t you just love this new technolegy?

Marcel :wink: :smiley: