If you mean this.
http://www.nachi.org/forum/attachments/f77/52136d1328200765t-roof-plumbing-vent-flashing-105_4589.jpg
It’s wrong, plain and simple.
http://www.nachi.org/forum/attachments/f77/52172d1328280103t-roof-plumbing-vent-flashing-b2.jpg
This is correct install.
The crack is at the tar/boot connection and it’s wrong. When water enters the “crack” how/where does it exit?
1.) I see the bitumen asphalt has de-laminated or separated from the rubber and the cut asphalt shingles.
The rubber appears to be intact and almost new.
2.) Here is a dried out rubber boot.
It is plain to see the rubber has openings in the rubber elastic membrane.
Once pliable to a degree is now worn can cracked.
The sun is the major ingredient in the decomposition of the rubber.
Photo 2 is a*** two component*** plumbing flange. Aluminum and rubber. The rubber boots exterior may have a circumference that is expanded. The expanded rubber has been folded into a shaped cup or seal and locked through compression.
You can see the dried, cracked, worn rubber.
3.) The third photo is a rubber boot.
It also comes in other pliable materials.
4.) The last photo is what I mostly installed with company’s that regarded their work as professional and did not want comebacks.
In the late 70’s and early eighties copper was the material of choice.
I am just asking the HI for his observation to his hypotheses.
Why does he think this is a red flag or improper installation technique.
There are several types, stiles and degrees of angles in plumbing protrusion flanges or wet stack flashing boots
Also that Bitumen caulk is a main stay for roofers.
I would look for water entry points once my roof inspection is over.
I again have a unfair advantage. It has been my life’s work.
I enjoy learning the proper technical narrative.
It was my weak suite that still needs much work.
I am not trying to demote the HI.
Only trying to impress a observation technique.
Sorry if my narrative is harsh.
The second photo is incorrect.
The flange or flashing should be totally covered by the shingle layers.
The flange should be fastened to the deck or a measurement should have been taken to line up the courses of shingles.
A full shingle must cover past the 50% percent mark on the flanges protrusion.
No tab notches as in the photo.
A full width of a shingle. No tabs allowed. The back portion would be the start on that layout.
Then you apply the next shingle atop and do your cuts around the circumference.
Proper way in my opinion.
You nail the flange to the deck.
a.) First apply bitumen caulk to the base,
2.) nail the flange to the deck.
3. Start covering the flanges metal with shingles cutting the circumference as you go higher.
That is how I was taught by the white hat code inspectors back in the late 1970’s
That is the proper technique as far as I am concerned.
Yes you can use another methods.
The 50% percent as mentioned.
I will look for the NRCA code requirement.
First the flange and build up the plies of shingles over the flange.
You’re entitled to believe what you want.
Appears you are right MR. Currings.
I will find the artical.
Here is what I tried to explain and did a bugger of a job doing so.
Thanks MR. Currin’s.
Soil vents.http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/shingles-vent-pipe.htm
I’d call it out as an area of concern, the way the shingles cover the down slope portion of the flashing leads me to believe the shingles may be on top of the flashing. Water may run all the way down the underlayment and emerge in an area remote from the stack where it is not visible from the attic. Also if this is in a climate where ice could form it could heave the shingles if it penetrated to an underlayment.
When in doubt, call it out.
I have ti increase my narratives description.
shingles cover the down slope portion.
“First the flange and build up the plies of shingles over the flange.”
Yes.
Chris, you still do not have a proven leak. The water that may go in that little crack should hit the flange and exit from under the shingle(s).
I forgot about KISS.
All shingle and other assorted roof styles should be inspected yearly.
You have not proven water infiltration as Mr. Cambell notes.
An area of concern.
1: Note all the deficiencies.
2: Recommend: Licensed Registered roofer treat the area with bitumen caulk and inspect yearly.
Most roofer do not charge for yearly inspections.
Anytime I see black roof plastic cement, it is non-professional flashing. Proper flashing is an impenetrable membrane (metal or rubber or membrane), NOT caulk if roof dope.
Just call it out and don’t let the non-professional “roofers” say that what they did was “OK”.
Hope this helps;
I will get some photos for you to see BOOTS FOR A SOIL VENT BEING INSTALLED.
Full covered flashing plate makes to difference.
The metal, rubberized membrane or aluminum is under the shingle.
The shingles over the boot are purposely not nailed or fasteners used. They use bitimen to adhere the asphalt shigle down.
No penetrations through the flashing.
That cracked bitumen is just that cracked bitumen.
You need proof of water infiltration.
When we see this, we think, a) Roof was leaking, b) owner hired the cheapest guy to fix the leak and c) the guy that was hired was just a handyman of a crap roofer and he just slapped roof dope on it and called it a day. At least, that is how it goes, usually, in this area.
Mr. Decker I suspect most Home Inspectors have the same opinion when they observe any caulk around a protrusion.
When done properly, the caulk should not be visible.
All I can say is, if if you look at the roof deck from the attic side you will see fastener patterns. 
They tell me ALLOT.
!.) If flashing have been installed properly.
3.) shingles have been installed correctly.
3.) Do I start to take away or turn off my null hypotheses about that system.
Be it roof, cribbing, and all the other systems.
Water intrusion FASTENERS should be the observation here in my opinion.
Wrong or missing fasteners of any type ( deck screws in a electrical panel ) and visible caulk are warning signs to me.
They can give you many hints as to the builders or repair persons mindset at that point in time. JMO
Back in the day when I started roofing, I tagged along with a shingle crew because of my brawn not brain. I was on the BUR team and top shape sir. TOP…
We would do maintenance as I do today with my facade restoration crew.
I redo ( caulk ) or any element that appears to be a possible water and weather entry point.
Now I will be doing weather entry maintenance on any size or age of building.
No more crews and build per-say.
Family and my life have changed. That passion to build is gone. Now it is to use my experience and save people hard earned money.
Bitumen aka plastic cement is the most widely used caulk know to man in roofing bar none.
When used PROPERLY it provides a water tight action and is vaguely noticeable by the professional and unseen by the laymen.
As noticeable as any other caulk.
Opps except for clear. Sorry. Trade secret.
It’s longevity is the shortest BUT sufficient to warranty and guarantee in writing any day of the week.
I have been giving guarantees for 30 years now and never had one comeback.
I am proud of that fact sir. Very proud.
I include in the roofing section of my reports and at the end ( recommendation and referrals.).
RECOMMEND: " All roofing systems should be inspected once yearly."
The roofing system is under dead and live load and other forces that may cause weather and water infiltration and components to degrade.
At the bottom of the report , depending on the service I just preformed, a list. It includes discounts I offer seeing they started using my services.
“Montreal Home Inspection Services provides yearly maintenance inspections.”
