Well, just one tip really
Well, just one tip really
That looks like my old place at 8607 East Dianna Dr.!!
Lupe was asking after you Linas.
She’s gonna have to fight R.A. Bob for him!!!
Ahhhh…I have fond memories of Lupe… and her sister Maria.
Brian I am not all that familiar with tile.
What is the proper underlayment for tile?
What is the proper roof structure for tile?
Obviously the asphalt shingle and the bracing on the existing framing is wrong.
Hi David. This roof they just laid the tile over the Asphalt shingles, which is ok.
The main concern is the difference in weight. Concrete Tiles weigh more then Shingles and the framing needs to be designed to carry the load.
As a run of the mill Home Inspector myself, there is no way for me to determine if the roof framing was engineered/designed to support Tile. For all I know this roof MAY have been installed by a Roofing Contractor and they MAY have taken the extra weight into consideration.
Then again, who knows?
I recommended that any and all paper work concerning the roof be reviewed, and if that was not possible then the roof should be evaluated by a Roofing Contractor with remedy as necessary.
I doubt very, VERY much any roofing system designed for asphalt shingle will have the structural strength to support concrete tile, not even close. IMHO
I would tend to agree with you John.
Thanks for the info on the roof, and what do you mean run of the mill inspectors:mrgreen:
I am glad I only see 1 out of 1000 roofs being tile. I have enough trouble with asphalt.
Sorry guys, but I’d have to disagree with you there. They leave a lot of safety factor in roof framing and you’d be surprised at the weight per square factor. It seems like there’d be a huge difference, but there isn’t always.
The problems with changing to a heavier material are often framing settling causing drywall cracks rather than the inability of the roof framing to support the additional structural load.
Something a lil outside of SOP, just an “FYI”, but a tip given to me from a Truss engineer. There are times when a homeowner “could” track down the truss specs for the subject home when there is no paperwork.
On the King post of a truss, many times the manu. info is stamped. Or if it is thought they were manufactured locally, there are stamps/letters on the webs that a truss engineer could point someone in the right direction for. IE you call Anyville truss and tell them a “CL” is stamped on the web, they respond. “Not mine, that’s Anywhere Truss Co’s metal”.
I’ve done this on repairs for trusses, I wouldn’t interpret for a HO on an inspection for obv. reasons, but the more info in one’s head can be helpful at times.
If a truss co or engineer of record could be found for a specific installation/address, they may be able to tell someone whether the truss was designed for Heavyweight installations. They will also generally provide a statement of fact or assist with design of engineered repairs for their trusses. Outside of that, SE is needed.
Just some info.
Tim, I’m not understanding you. Are you saying that trusses have visible engineering specification information encoded or stamped somewhere on them that can be referenced to the manufacturer?