Should there be some sort of kick out here?

Should there be some sort of kick-out here to divert the water from going over the edge and onto the front of the house?

Yes and no.
Depends how you look at it. Water coming down the face of the siding will go in the J-channel at the bottom and come out at the lower end.
Problem is, the vinyl corner dams it and some of the water is going to go behind the siding on the front face of the house.
Unfortunately, that is the case of vinyl siding, it is not water tight and shows you the importance of a WRB underneath of the siding.
So if the outside corner would have been kept up a minimum of 1" like they are suppose to, you could verify if the step flashing was installed properly to avoid the problem of water intrusion behind the siding to begin with.
In my opinion, I would say that the flashing requirement at the corner of the down slope of the roof may cause water intrusion behind the siding unless it can be corrected or to assure the proper flashing has been installed at that corner to prevent water from being projected behind the siding on the front face.

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There is, IMHO, no way for any inspector to predict any future eventuality. You can recommend anything you like but schitt happens. No getting around it. Report what you think. Let the client decide what to do about it, or nothing.

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Report what you see!

And you cannot see any flashing…at least from that picture.

Most deficiencies are based on future prediction. Hole in the roof? if it never rains or snows, no problem. How do you know it will rain? are you not predicting future? improper wiring? how do you know it will spark? are you not predicting that it will? Some deficiencies just have more odds than others, but most of it is based on “educated guess” as to what the consequences could be down the road.

No requirement for a kick out that I’m aware of. Now flashing yes. But given the age of the roof, it appears worn, a lack of flashing would be causing a water issue by now. I’d be looking for flashing and or water damage of the sub roof or interior spaces at or near that point.

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Yes. Just recommend it.

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Would you call out the roof is worn I have seen a lot worse so I didn’t think to call it out?

No. It might be a good idea but I seriously doubt you could find any literature to back it up if you recommended it, so… no.
Vinyl siding installation recommendations only specify ½" clearance from the shingles.

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So use to 1", I didn’t even notice.
It usually ends up 5/8-3/4" while installing it. Manufactures are worried about heat distortion from the shingles. So more is better actually, but when you install J-molding on the roof you normally like to use a gauge for the gap, and down at the bottom of the wall in the OP’s picture, the corner should be lifted the same as the J-molding so as to not dam up the water. Here is what you do for a gauge to leave a gap between the roofing and the J.
You use a J molding on it’s side and put the other one on top.

I agree Marcel, ½" seems kinda dumb, and in addition to risking warpage, you wind up trapping debris just like in the photo. That debris can hold moisture against the sidewall flashing, causing premature failure.

The Builder: we do it like this all the time and never had a problem – people don’t want to see the ugly gap.

Here is the link to the Vinyl Siding Institute Installation Manual. See page 26 for options on wall flashing they recommend.

Vinyl Siding Installation Manual

It looks like kickoff flashing is recommended… :smile:

From link above:

Its an option to Figure 44

Yes, another option is # 44:

Those details apply to when there is a wall beyond the roof. In the OP’s picture you have a roof beyond the wall. Different scenario.
As I said previously, the outside corner is damming any water coming down the J mold and the roof because there is no space under it.
Unless that step flashing was wrapped around the corner, you are going to have leakage behind the siding on the front face of the building.
Needs to be verified and corrected if necessary.

The discoloration of the shingles, was that because it is dry, or what.?

Got any good detailed graphic showing how it should be done correctly?

I got rid of my drafting and design tools back in 1983. LOL

I’m late to the party :face_with_head_bandage:

Something like this to let the water run out with proper flashing behind it:

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