Originally Posted By: Joe Funderburk This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
This is an addition to a 30 year old house. The slab all the way around the addition was not in contact with the ground at the edges. I could stick my foot up under the concrete about 6 - 8 inches in some areas. Vinyl siding prevented me from determining depth of slab. (No gutters were provided either.)
Need information on how deep a slab should be and recommendations on how to address this.
Originally Posted By: bsmith This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I did an inspection not too long ago with similar conditions. The homeowner had built an addition onto an existing patio slab. Looks about the same to me.
Originally Posted By: Jay Moge This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
you can pretty accuratly guesstimate the thickness by measuring from the floor to the window sill, and from the grade (or bottom of the slab) to the window sill. then do the math. but i agree, footing is a structral issue.
Originally Posted By: bkelly2 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Quote:
The Arizona room appears to have been remodeled or part of an addition. If so, we recommend that you verify the permit and certificate of occupancy. This is important because our inspection does not tacitly approve, endorse, or guarantee the integrity of any work that was done without a permit, and latent defects could exist.
Originally Posted By: lkage This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Steven Brewster wrote:
Do you guys probe or dig out around a slab to determine if is footed correctly?
No, not unless there's reason. The slab in the above photo yelled "Look at me! Look at me, I have no footing! 
-- "I have never met a man so ignorant that I couldn't learn something from him."
Galileo Galilei
Originally Posted By: mcyr This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Paul;
Back in 1972, I built a duplex up in Madawaska, Maine which would kind of match the environmental conditions to where you are, and typically in the area you would pour the slab at the edge perimeter to about 12" to 18" thick and taper off to 4" or 6" slab.
Most usually, 2" of Styrofoam was added for frost protection and insulating values.
Having sold the building 15 years later, the conditions were the same and did not look like the photos you provided.
It is what we called in that time, a frost free floating structural slab.
