anyone have any good information on steel frame construction for inspection purposes… I’ve been asked to inspection one in a few weeks and want to learn about it first to decide if it is something i want to do or take more time to learn for the next one.
Jeff, if you need help with this, I am here. Just define what kind of steel frame you are talking about and I can help you.
If there is steel frame, there are Purlins, anchor bolts, 325 bolts 325 TC bolts, bar joist, steel bridging, decking, Type B, painted, Type C, galvanized,
Seating minimums, Bolted connections, moment connections, and the list goes on. Then there is the simple pre-engineered Steel Building.
Just e-mail me or call me during the day at 751-8406.
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One of the first really thorough instruction manuals on how to construct residences using steel framing instead of wood, and written by Tim Waite of the NAHB. Covers how to design the structure to accommodate plumbing, wiring and HVAC, how to cut, assemble and secure the steel, how to deal with second-story construction, roof framing using trusses and conventional construction, specialty framing like curved walls and radius windows, how to attach drywall and exterior finishes, how to effectively install insulation, and how to deal with inspectors and the homebuyer.
I as well may have misinterpreted Jeff’s post but I knew where your mind went just as soon as I’d seen your reply.
That would have been my knee jerk response 20 years ago.
Not much but I had a great run in the pictured subdivision while the were being constructed.
There’s a push in some areas and there have been a few more subdivisions that solely use this technology.
Not a stick of wood to be found unless it’s for backing.
I’ve only been involved with 1 house that wasn’t single story.
i was misled a little… but it is still steel framed… i am asking for more info… but it appears like a typical residential inspection i will just do a little homework on the steel framing…
much better than Bangor too… buyer is contacting a structural engineer to go look at the place… do you know any good ones that could do something like that? not sure who will be paying for that… but if he plans to pursue the building it needs to be done.
that same house (bangor) had all teh copper stolen last year while vacant… all been re-piped! but they left the knob and tube!!!
It is probably light-gauge steel framing. If so, the connections are critical, and chances are, few of them will be visible. It’s a matter basically of number and type of screws, and the pattern of them. The best way to inspect it would be to try to obtain a set of the construction documents. They should have the critical connections detailed on them. Other issues are member width, depth and gauge, and again, the best way to inspect would be to check what members you can see against the construction documents.
some information i have received is the home is part of an estate… the seller has never lived there… gotten all his information from a previous owner… the house was built in 98… i will see what is available for drawings but i suspect it will be quite a task to track them down.
Jeff, take lots of pictures and post them, there are a bunch of people here that can help, believe me. I know.
If you see any connections that are structurally connected, you should see some #10 or #12 screws (teks) in the panel points and that is why you would not know if there is something wrong unless you have the shop drawings on the engineered system.
the realtor on that is representing both sides and tried putting it off on me to schedule a structural inspection… well that did not fly… i just wanted to give some names… she spouted deadlines and i told her to start calling… LOL
Hey Marcel and all… very good information. I’ve learned a lot already… the inspection was completed today and went pretty well.
Biggest concern at this point is heat loss in the home… the corners of rooms (shaded sides) were especially cold… you could actually feel where the steel studs were… in the basement, at the sills, the knockouts and corners of the steel framing were almost drafty… i registered a 35 degrees in one area… they were filled with fiberglass insulation. Is there typically any thermal barrier or break between the exterior (vinyl siding, building paper and OSB)?