on the way to find out the 25 standards inspectors should know Jeremy PA
Let’s go, 25 standards every inspector should know.
Just getting started on this course.
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Just finished the course and about to take the final exam. Thank you.
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Re: Ventless Fireplace
Studying this topic now, and have a question about how to note them in your report regarding the potential for CO and other toxic combustion byproducts introduced into the living space even if the unit is functioning normally. Is that something we should mention, even if the unit has no apparent deficiencies ?
Looking forward to this course!
Already building some literature to use for future clients and I’m sure this knowledge will be helpful
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Excited about this course. Great information so far.
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I don’t currently note this in my reports as a potential hazard. There are thousands of potential hazards in a house if something malfunctions. I don’t think it’s appropriate to fill our reports with information on potential issues. If the ventless fireplace was properly installed and there are no signs of any issue, then I move on…anyway, I’m just starting this course…maybe my opinion will change after I get to that section…
A member just sent in a great essay response! Check it out:
View Question
Research & Writing Essay Instructions
This research and writing assignment may take four hours.
In relation to this research and writing assignment:
- Choose one inspection article from the Library of Inspection Articles or choose one illustration from the Illustration Gallery that directly relates to Standard #8: Drainage, Standard #15: TPR Discharge, or Standard #18: Traps.
- Research and study the article or illustration.
- In the box below titled “Your Essay," write an essay that describes what you’ve learned from reading and studying the article or illustration.
- Upload and submit an inspection image or the chosen illustration along with the essay.
Your essay must meet the following criteria:
- It must be written in English.
- It must be at least 80 words in length.
- It must be written at a minimum 4th-grade level.
- It must sufficiently comment upon the chosen article or illustration related to this course's main topics.
- It must include an inspection image.
This research and writing assignment is very similar to what a home inspector does during a home inspection--researching and studying inspection images and illustrations, studying and referring to and applying a Standards of Practice, taking inspection images, making observations, describing components, determining the condition of those components, formulating opinions, making recommendations to correct (if needed), proposing the implication of not making corrections to a defect (if observed), writing notes, and communicating observations in written form.
Please continue with the course after submitting your essay. If the essay does not meet the criteria, you'll be notified by email to rewrite the essay.
All fixtures that drain into a septic system or city sewer system are required to have a gas trap. Gas traps prevent smells and harmful gasses from entering the home. Although there are many incorrect styles of gas traps the only style permitted by code is a P trap. P traps are characterized by the drain entering from above and exiting horizontally. Additionally the trap is required to have a trap seal depth of 4 inches. Which is the distance between the water level in the trap and the highest point in the trap dip.
Getting started on the 25 standards course. Should be fun!
I completely agree Joseph.
Getting started with this one today. As I’ve never been in the home building business, everything so far has been educational to say the least 
Right off the bat, I noticed that there are restrictions about where a service panel can be locate: not inside a bathroom, over stairs or in a clothes closet. With that said, I’m assuming that I should point this out in an inspection report if I encounter it? I’ve encountered service panels inside a clothes closet a few times, but I didn’t point it out in my report.
Just starting this course! Will come back later!
This course was GREAT to help reinforce the knowledge i have learned so far and I picked up several bit of new information to add to my “On the Field” notes just in case I need to look up information.
Ben, Jeremy, and other contributors, great questions and observations.
To start with, I’m not a licensed plumber. I’ve simply learned a few things from a couple fantastic Master Plumbers, and everything I’m mentioning below should be verified by the building codes for your jurisdiction.
Thoughts:
If the T&P discharges through an outside wall, then the potential for burns due to steam or hot water exposure would be increased, especially if discharged near a walkway or from a height.
If the T&P is located inside the “cup” of the drain below, such as a floor drain, then the pressure of escaping steam can pressurize the drain pipe and the surrounding area, projecting waste as it does so. This is mainly caused by the lack of time steam could meet with cooler air, which could otherwise lead to rapid condensation and pressure reduction.
If the T&P is allowed to exhaust above the floor drain a minimum of 2", it allows for condensation of the steam, and still a place for it to drain upon expulsion from the T&P pipe. If hot water is exhausted instead of steam (or before or after steam), then the liquid has a place to go without increasing the risk of hurting someone.
Consider a 6" termination of the T&P pipe above a floor drain. That’s a lot of space for hot water or steam to project or splatter with very little containment, even if the steam cools to the point of condensation. Lots of splattering can happen if terminated at higher heights above the catch basin or floor drain.
Consider the mistake of glueing the T&P pipe into a “T” at the water heater drain pan or directly into a drain stack. Bad habits like this can lead to a few different problems. Firstly, the steam is not exposed to “cool” air, resulting in the rapid condensation of the steam, but instead pressurizing the drain stack, possibly resulting in joint failure of the PVC or other piping. Secondly, the sanitation consideration of not having the air gap at all should be considered. You have potable water with direct contact to a nasty drain assembly, and now a T&P valve opens to provide potential access for any drain line contaminated gasses or pressurized fluids to return to the tank after the event has concluded.
Some jurisdictions allow drainage of the T&P directly into the pan under a water heater. This, though allowed, is usually not a good idea for a couple more reasons. Firstly, the pans most commonly used are ABS plastic, known for being brittle and easily abused and cracked. Dumping condensed steam or a volume of hot water into a pan which has been compromised may result in collateral damages to property or injured persons. Secondly, the tendency for the termination to be 2 or more inches above the top rim of the pan, instead of 2 inches from the bottom of the pan, can allow for some of the same risks already described (overshooting, spraying, etc).
Well, I’m looking forward to learning more, so bring on the feedback.
I’ve got a question regarding your opinions of the inspection of minimum code requirements VS best-practices in any topic.
- If Florida Plumbing code requires an 8" air gap between the top of the weir of a P-Trap and the bottom of the air-admittance valve, should we mark the item as one needing a remedy?
- The logic to this questions refers to the manufacturer’s requirements of the specific air-admittance valve on one hand, and simple fluid-dynamics on the other. Even if the manufacturer did not require their air admittance valve to be installed “above the flood level rim” of the sink or fixture, the knowledge of how the water will flow if someone fills the sink and suddenly releases it, or if there is a clog in the line which could partially or fully back up the vent line, convicts me in marking it for repair.
Perhaps I’m wrong. Thoughts?
Denis,
Terrific question!
You can indeed pick up a 1.25" P-Trap from any box store for use under a sink. However, kitchen sinks are designed to handle larger volumes of water at higher flow rates than a bathroom vanity sink might. The 1.25" lines you’re referring to should be used in (most) vanities, though high-flow faucets may also require a larger drain line. For kitchens, a single drain line may have to handle (1) a disposal, (2) the dishwasher drain line going into the disposal and out into the P-Trap, (3) perhaps an icemaker discharge line which enters through a branch tailpiece above the P-Trap, (4) any other drain line from any filtration or other device which is supposed to drain before the P-Trap.
In any case, rules may vary, but the 1.5" lines a generally for kitchen sink applications, while 1.25" lines generally are used for bathroom vanity applications. Consult a local, licensed plumber for more information and a good chat when you can. It’s amazing how helpful professionals can be!
PS - I’m not a licensed plumber 
Hi Nathan,
Thank you for taking time to respond to my post.
Did you think the final exam question was correctly worded? It reads, “The size of a P-trap drainpipe should be at least _______ inches.”
And the answer they give is: 1-1/2"
Do you think that for the information that the test question provides, the answer should be 1-1/2" even though the test question does not say anything about kitchen plumbing specifically?
I was also curious if you are affiliated with the InterNACHI test qustion people? That way, you could let them know, if you agreed that this was a test error.
Aloha, Denis
I like how this course is re-iterating on some practices from prior lessons, helps to better understand some things