Electrical Service Panels
At the moment of making an inspection to an electric panel, take all the necessary measures to ensure that we do not have any potential damage to ourselves during the inspection, and in the same way for the protection of the property and the client. A visual evaluation should always be done that allows us to determine if there is an adequate space to work, the existence of some type of animal or object that may hinder access or early departure in the area where the work will be taking place. You must have a minimum area of 3 feet at least.
We must observe indicators or possible danger signs such as wet floors, corroded panels, incorrect screws in the cover panel and evidence of electrical faults are just some of the factors. Taking the necessary measures will allow us to make a correct and appropriate inspection.
The picture is of Double lugging of two neutral wires ~ Multiple neutral conductors in a single termination create a significant problem when the circuit needs to be isolated. In order to isolate the circuit, the branch breaker is turned off and the neutral is disconnected by removing it from the terminal. If the terminal is shared with another circuit, the connection on the other (still energized) circuit will be loosened as well. Loosening of the second neutral (loss of neutral) under load is a safety hazard, and may establish an overvoltage condition on lighting and appliances if the neutral is part of a 120/240 Vac multi-wire branch circuit.
Wire gauge refers the physical size of the wire, rated with a numerical designation that runs opposite to the diameter of the conductors, the smaller the wire gauge number, the larger the wire diameter. Common sizes include 14-, 12-, 10-, 8-, 6-, and 2-gauge wire. The size of the wire dictates how much current can safely pass through the electrical wire.
Electrical current is measured in ampacity. As a guide, #14 wire is designated for 15-amp circuits, #12 wire is designated for 20-amp circuits, #10 wire for 30 amps. Ampacity should match the circuit size.
ELECTRICAL PANEL General Electric Panel location hallway
service size 150 amp 240 volt breakers
aluminum bus copper wire face plate was removed for a visual
inspection and verification.
Breaker configuration: satisfactory
Wire over Current: satisfactory
All outlets were spot checked throughout the structure and found that they
were all correctly grounded.
GFI outlets may not be required, but adding GFCI protection increases occupant safety is recommended.
NOTE: CLIP ON PANEL DOOR IS BROKE
Electric Panel exterior on a single family dwelling will have a maximum of one main disconnect, the panel should be an RB Rain Proof with a clearance of at least three foot in front of the panel box. Only a qualified contractor or home inspector should remove the dead front of the panel.
This electrical panel is obstructed by its proximity to the ladder to the left and the ladder beneath. These obstructions could make it difficult to examine the electrical panel fully and accurately not to mention making it riskier by working in a confined area.
The video on advanced electrical inspections was very interesting and extremely helpful. I can say that it gave me better overall knowledge of what to look for in an electrical examination as well as understanding that it is not my job to test to code; but rather to call out safety concerns and to make sure the basic visual inspection action is completed.
A Recessed lighting fixture, such as the one in the picture above, is considered to be an outlet in electrical terminology. There is an important distinction between the terms outlet and receptacle in electrical terminology. A receptacle is an object that you plug electrical devices into to power or charge them, like a lamp or blender, whereas an outlet is a location at which electrical power is taken to supply electrical equipment or devices such as receptacles, lighting, or smoke detectors. If this light outlet is IC rated, insulation is allowed to be installed around it in the ceiling above, in contact with the light fixture. If it is not IC rated, insulation must be installed 3 inches minimum distance from the fixture, in order to prevent a fire hazard. The light outlet is connected to a 15 amp over-current protection breaker device in my Challenger service electrical panel. It is most likely hooked up using #14 NM copper wiring, but I was unable to view it at this time.
“Electricity: Origins, Consumption, and Costs”
Electricity can be generated from many different sources, including coal, nuclear power, natural gas, hydroelectric power, wind, solar, petroleum, and others. Each source has it’s own costs, environmental impact, and origin. Coal, petroleum, and natural gas sources release greenhouse gases upon combustion which has a damaging effect on the air we breathe, results in global warming, and has other negative environmental impacts. Nuclear and hydroelectric sources have a smaller effect on global warming and air pollution, however, they still have safety issues and some environmental impact. Solar and wind energy have the best outlook in terms of environment and safety, however, the technology is not perfected and needs to be improved to use on a larger scale. Political issues cloud the progression of green energy sources. In the future, humans must adapt to a changing climate and lessen their environmental impact, by switching to renewable energy sources. The most energy consuming devices in the average American home are the Air conditioning and heating units. Each state in America has it’s own economy and main source of energy. Energy costs vary from state to state and also time of year. Some states are more reliant on green energy sources and some are not. It is important for a home inspector to know about energy costs, electricity usage, and energy origins so they have a reference point of understanding. Understanding issues like these can make a home inspector more “well rounded” and intelligent, so they can help their clients to overcome related problems.
This is a picture of a Remote distribution panel; this home was built in 1998. There are GFCI outlets in the home but no AFCI circuits. Also the identification of the breakers is not readable and should be corrected.I will be recommending these items in my report.When scanning the breakers for heat I find the temperature to even over all of the circuits.
This photo depicts a breaker in an electrical distribution panel that has been double tapped. Upon close inspection it was noted that this breaker had no identification labeling it for two wires. Also note in the picture there are also multiple double tapped lugs on the grounding buss bar.
Square D QO breakers are listed for two conductors . The label is on e the side of the breaker. It should also be common knowledge and covered under the training.
Multiple grounding wires in one terminal are typically allowed. Neutrals are one per hole.
The article I read was Electrical Service Panels
A very important aspect of inspecting electrical service panels is to, NEVER BECOME COMPLACENT! Some of the things to look out for and report on are, evidence of moisture and rust, clearances to panel, aluminum wiring, sharp panel cover attachment screws, properly sized circuit breakers and improper bonding.
This is the last course other than “Wind Mid.” Saved the best for last!
Now to find one deficiency in this panel. Hmmmm. I realize homeowners feel that they can do repairs on their home to save money. But how could anyone seriously walk away from this panel, patting themselves on the back and thinking what a great job I just did. This is a prime example why we need inspectors. Unfortunately, until this panel is inspected, the hazards it poses are unconscionable. And for how many years is this persons family in jeopardy.
I chose electric panels. If wired correctly, i find certain panels works of art. The electrician took the time to strip the wires just right, the wires are all formed perfectly routed in panel, all breakers are labeled, its just pure poetry. Then you come upon the demolition derby of panels. Double and triple tapped breakers, bare wires snaked all around the box, wires stripped 1/2" to 1’ more than needed, wires through knock outs, etc, etc, etc. They should make homeowners take an aptitude test before being allowed to buy electrical components at Lowes and Home Depot!!! But then, I would be out of a job.
Dwelling has a fused main disconnect. A home equipped with a fuse panel is almost always less safe than one equipped with modern circuit breakers. Burnt signs were seen on panel cover, inquire with seller. Because of all the problems that are usually associated with fuse panel installations, insurance companies will sometimes charge a premium for homes with fused services.
The home inspector shall observe: Service entrance conductors; Service equipment, grounding equipment, main over current device, and main and
distribution panels; Amperage and voltage ratings of the service; Branch circuit conductors, their over current devices, and the compatibility of their ampacities and voltages; The operation of a representative number of installed ceiling fans, lighting fixtures, switches and receptacles located inside the house, garage, and on the dwelling’s exterior walls; The polarity and grounding of all receptacles within six feet of interior plumbing fixtures, and all receptacles in the garage or carport, and on the exterior of inspected structures; The operation of ground fault circuit interrupters; and Smoke detectors. The home inspector shall describe: Service amperage and voltage; Service entry conductor materials; Service type as being overhead or underground; and Location of main and distribution panels. The home inspector shall report any observed aluminum branch circuit wiring. The home inspector shall report on presence or absence of smoke detectors, and operate their test function, if accessible, except when detectors are part of a central system. The home inspector is not required to: Insert any tool, probe, or testing device inside the panels; Test or operate any over current device except ground fault circuit
interrupters; Dismantle any electrical device or control other than to remove the covers of the main and auxiliary distribution panels; or Observe: Low voltage systems; Security system devices, heat detectors, or carbon monoxide detectors; Telephone, security, cable TV, intercoms, or other ancillary wiring
that is not a part of the primary electrical distribution system; or Built-in vacuum equipment.
This is a electrical panel inside of the garage. As you can see all of the brackers are on. This panel runs all appliances and lighting in the home. As you can see all brackers are on. What I can see panel and bracket look good.
Electrical outlet should say the amps they are rated for. The small slot on the out let is the hot slot. Small slot on the outlet is the neutral. Some but not all outlets will have a reset button. This is a extra safety for over loud.