The above main electrical panel was inspected in a residence that was in foreclosure. It was noted that the panel cover was loose with an attempt to secure the cover with sheet rock screws. It was decided that the panel cover would not be removed for safety concerns since all six screws were she rock screws. Multiple Open knockouts were noted and labeling on the legend left several breakers as unknown. Eight of the breakers used or not in compliance with the recommended breakers of the panel manufacturer. There are also two black wires extending through the knockout holes in the panel cover. It is recommended that an electrical contractor evaluate and make any repairs necessary.
During an inspection on a homes electrical panel it is important to take your time and inspect for defects that could become a safety issue, under sized wires and oversized breakers for example could easily become a fire hazard if the conditions are right.
Electrical safety is often ignored or put on the back burner, when an electrical issue is discovered it should be corrected as soon as possible. A small issue such as a damaged extension cord may never cause trouble buy why would you want to chance it.
Inspecting electrical panels can be a tricky and dangerous undertaking. Even experienced electricians have been shocked and even killed while doing panel inspections. Clean work areas, dry conditions, and steady movements, are required to perform the panel inspection. Deficiencies found during the inspection can include: missing knockouts, improperly sized breakers, moisture in the panel, damaged wiring, signs of pest infestation, aluminum branch circuits, improper panel cover attachment, oxidation, and evidence of overheated equipment. All of these items should be reported on and recommended for further evaluation by a licensed electrical contractor.
I did an inspection on a home and found this service to be installed in correct fashion. It is a 200 amp 40 space panel with plenty of room for expansion if needed. Properly bonded and grounded. Located in basement on left front side of house.
It is important as a home inspector to be extremely careful when inspecting a service panel. You should always check the screws and cover with your ticker to be sure a screw has not punctured a hot wire. Also you should always the back of your hand to touch the panel first.
I have chosen to include a photo of an Eaton brand sub panel. The sub panel has multi strand aluminum main “feeder”, and a combination of solid strand and multi-strand copper branch wiring. AFCI breakers should be noted on the bottom left section of the panel.
I have reviews an article referring to electrical panel types and safety. A list of panels which are known for having problems was provided, some of which I was unaware of. Along with Zinsco and Federal Pacific Electrical panels, Federal NOARC, Federal Pioneer, and Stab-Lok panels are also noted with having problems.
A GFCI receptacle in a 30 year old home installed upside down. Tester shows open ground and test button on tester does not trip the GFCI. Upon removing it and using the outlet test button, it trips and functions properly.
When inspecting a grounding rod, it is advisable to look for embossing or etching at the top of the rod to verify if it has been cut or shortened. The top of the rod, along with the clamp should be completely submerged in earth. If not, it should be covered to protect from damage and/or loosening of the clamp.
This is a Westinghouse Bryant panel installed about 1989, it has a 200 amp service rating. A few things I noticed; several double taps on ground/neutral busbar, a non-Bryant breaker on the bottom right, the panel calls for only Bryant replacements. There is a knockout plug in the top of the panel missing, this can allow moisture, insects and rodents inside.
A grounding rod should be buried 8’ deep, if not possible because of buried rock you are allowed to bury it at a 45 degree angle. If that is not possible you may bury it horizontally provided it is buried at least 2.5’ underground. The rod should be driven flush with the ground so as not to risk a trip or impalement hazard.
I chose to write my essay on the article Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters by Nick Gromicko and Ethan Ward.
The purpose of a Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter is to disconnect a circuit when unbalanced current is detected between a hot conductor and a neutral. The goal is to save lives. The current tripping threshold is between four and six mA. The first GFCI system was developed in 1955 by Henri Ruben to be used in the South African Mines. Then in 1961 Charles Dalziel developed the first transistorized version. During this time period the protection was in the breakers. Starting in the early 1980s receptacles were built with GFCIs in them and that became the standard device to use. This helped reduce nuisance tripping. Since the development of the GFCI the required locations have grown to include bathrooms, kitchens, garages, crawlspaces, basements, outdoor receptacles, boathouses, commercial garages, indoor pool and spas, wet bars, and roof tops.
The devices should be routinely tested. The proper testing method is to use the test and reset button on the device. When the test button is pressed it should pop the reset button out and de-energize power to the device. If this happens you may press the reset button which should restore power. If either one of these do not work then an electrical contractor should evaluate the device further.
My inspection was on a GE electric panel. Upon removing the deadfront I found several issues that are improper. There is an open knockout in the top of the panel that could allow debris, insects, and other combustible materials to enter the panel. This could result in a fire. There are three double pole breakers that have white conductors running to them that have not been properly re-identified. This could create a shock hazard on the other end of these conductors if not re-identified there as well. There are also two Square D breakers that have been installed. These are not listed as acceptable breakers to be used in the panel according to the specifications on the panel cover. This could result in a connection problem and cause arching inside the panel. A qualified electrical contractor should be contacted to evaluate the panel further and make the needed corrections.
At this inspection I had a Culter-Hammer box with Square D breakers in it, although these breakers are essentially the made by the same company and are very similar, I check the labeling on the box. I did not see the breakers used on the list I wrote it up as a deficiency and recommend an licensed Electrical contractor to evaluate and make any corrections needed.
AFCIs as 2006 are required in all bedrooms, they differ from GFCIs because they are designed to detect arcing through air to another conductor which is a fire hazard. Whereas GFCIs detect leaking of energy to a grounded object to prevent the electrocution of a person.
The photo is from a recently rehabilitated home, in Philadelphia, PA. The service panel has been upgraded, and a large percentage of the wiring was replaced, in the house. The service drop was older, and the line was missing a mast head, and was not secured to the exterior wall. A licensed electrical contractor is needed to verify the size of the service, install a proper masthead, and secure the line.
