The 2x4 test AND the arm/hand test are BOTH required on that page but changes made in June 06 actually deleted the hand/arm test from their published service bulletins and tech tips.
For additional entertaiment check out this long and quite entertaining thread
Someone on IN has now found that wayne dalton has instructions for checking and adjusting the FORCE SETTINGS in their owners manual(s) (Have not checked every manual)
So, DASMA has removed that check when at least one manuf. has it.
Looks like home inspectors cause too many call backs for the DASMA members so they created test instructions for us that leave out one of the most important items. Jeezzz.
Don’t use only the DASMA inspection process unless you want additional liability.
Also, be careful with using your arm/hand to test doors, stand outside the garage and do not apply much pressure. If it keeps going, fine, just write it up as needing service by a knowledgable person. All opener techs are not knowledgable on this so be careful just recommending them.
If you don’t feel comfortable checking these doors (cars present or old/weak/loose looking door) then disclaim it and recommend a knowledgeable person do it under the right circumstances.
How about the paper towel test? I’ve seen this on different manufactures sites.
A simple test you can perform to be sure that your door is adjusted properly is to start the door closing and then place an unopened roll of paper towels underneath it. The bottom of the door should contact the paper towels, compress it slightly, stop, and then reverse. If it doesn’t, your door needs to be adjusted. You can do that yourself by checking your owner’s manual, or you can call a professional
I found it difficult to judge the downward force using my arms. I prefer to step under the door and let it hit my shoulder. It is easier for me to judge the amount of force, although some older women think that I am about to get crushed!! This also allows me to watch the guide rail and motor for movement/flexing. If the force becomes too great, or there is too much flex in the rail or motor brackets I get out. If you are quick enough you should be able to get under the door while still standing completely upright, giving you plenty of room to get out of the way.
I believe that a garage door should not have any more downward force than necessary to close the door.
Disclaimer: Use this method at your own risk. It works for me, it might not work for you.
Bad test, all doors will squish a wimpy roll of towels.
Then are you going to reuse the now weakened roll on the next door?
Learn what a correct door feels like, it may take some inspectors a year to gain the feel but its important to do this or disclaim it due to lack of knowledge or fear of damage.
Use bathroom scales (analog ones) and practice on your own door while making adjustments…
DASMA is a great site, but most homeowners will be reviewing the OEM site and or safety installation documentation included with their units. I’ve not seen any recent OEM specs which refer to the arm test.
They all seem to agree:
2" x 4" board flat under center of door.
Wall control switch 5’ minimum above adjacent floor.
I don’t believe in getting in the way or under anything moving. But if there are no motion sensors,… I grab an interior handle or frame member with my finger tips (arm straight down at the side of my body) if it pulls out of my finger tips, I recommend adjustments. I never place objects in the path, including your own body.