This is a picture of a toilet that was inspected. I checked the floor around the toilet. There was no moisture, the floor was solid without any damage. The toilet flushed and drained properly. The tank completed its fill and stopped when complete. The flapper sealed the tank water without any leakage into the bowl. The toilet functions as it should.
How did you ascertain it’s water tank flush capacity of 1.0 gpf?
was it secured to the floor (did it rock or wobble at all)?
What was the water temp?
How was the lab water test?
Exactly…
Also check for a Hot water connection. Sometimes plumbers do this to reduce condensation (in well water applications).
How old was it, did you check the date?
No one likes an old Crapper. :mrgreen:
No sealants around the base. Uuuuk.
That is code around here now. Not that it matters. Don’t need a permit to replace it.
Personally I am on the fence about sealing the bottom. If the wax ring leaks, I want to know. If it is sealed, the only way to know is from below, or when the subfloor gets soft.
I understand the health implications. Nobody wants that water on the floor.
Whenchecking a toilet, the first thing I do is check if it’s secured by bumping it onthe side with my leg. If it’s secured, it won’t give. You’ll know for sure by a soft movement of the stool. As for the water connection, if it’s just dustywithout any green or rust, there should be no problem with the connection. But whatabout a house with a dirt ground crawl space, there could be a leak for yearsbefore it rots out the floor and the toilet starts to tip?
Black lab or yellow lab? Both can reach the bowl.
When I replaced my wax ring, I caulked the base of the toilet but left a gap at the rear so water could flow out and be seen if the wax seal leaks again.
hey, all Labs matter…