Originally Posted By: tthompson
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/more/HWT.jpg ]
Having troubles with uploading pictures..
See if this one works...
http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/more/HWT.jpg ]
Having troubles with uploading pictures..
See if this one works...
Originally Posted By: jpeck
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The photo works, and, yes, there is something wrong big time.
The T&P safety relief valve needs to be removed from where it is to being installed directly into the top of the tank in the T&P opening (the one with the galvanized pipe in it).
There are also some other questionable things in that photo.
--
Jerry Peck
South Florida
Originally Posted By: tthompson
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thanks…
That's what I stated....
Homeowner was yelling at me that her Dad was a professional plumber and it was done correctly...
Rattled me a bit...
What else do you see..
Originally Posted By: jpope
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
It doesn’t really look like a TPR valve to me, but rather a standard pressure valve typically installed just down stream of the regulator.
Looks to be quite a restriction at the connection.
--
Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738
Originally Posted By: psisler
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Since this subject was up I thought I would ask a question from vets and plumbers alike. Does the TPR need to be tested if so why? If it is not supposed to be tested why not? I have heard conflicting info on this subject and could use your help. Thanks.
Patrick
Originally Posted By: Blaine Wiley
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I live by the “never test a T&P valve because it may stick” theory of life. I tested it on my own water heater just before I replaced it, it opened up easily, and dern if it didn’t leak afterward.
Originally Posted By: jpeck
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I live by the test them is they test easily, if not, replace it.
It IS a safety valve, and as a safety valve, IT SHOULD operate each and every time. If it does not, it needs to be replaced. REPLACED, not forced open and then say 'see, there, it is working now'.
IF it is stuck or hard to open, DO NOT FORCE IT.
If you need to find out 'how hard should it be?', go the the Big Orange box (or any building or plumbing supply store) and play with a few new ones. That is how easy it should be. Anything more difficult and it needs to be replaced.
Okay, now we have both sides of the "test" and "not test" issue.
Everyone can carry on from there.
--
Jerry Peck
South Florida
Originally Posted By: tthompson
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thanks again for your reply…
It's nice to get second opinion
I don't test the TPR either...
In the house I was in today if I tested it would of drained onto the carpet in the walk-in closet and down into the kitchen...
Let's say the location of the HWT was poor.
Glad my picture opened up the door for this debate thou...
Originally Posted By: jpeck
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
| tthompson wrote: |
| In the house I was in today if I tested it would of drained onto the carpet in the walk-in closet and down into the kitchen... |
Well, OF COURSE you would not test it if it drained to the carpet. But you would (I would) write it up for not being properly drained and terminated.
--
Jerry Peck
South Florida
Originally Posted By: tthompson
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Originally Posted By: tallen
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Gone.
–
I have put the past behind me,
where , however, it now sits, making rude remarks.
www.whiteglovehomeinspections.net
30 Oct 2003-- 29 Nov2005
Originally Posted By: Gino Conner
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
| bwiley wrote: |
| I live by the "never test a T&P valve because it may stick" theory of life. I tested it on my own water heater just before I replaced it, it opened up easily, and dern if it didn't leak afterward. |
Usually, if you tap on the shaft lightly with a hammer it will stop. 
Originally Posted By: jay kline
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I recently finished some continuing education requirements (Texas license requirement) . . . One of the sessions was a review of IRC Plumbing section. The instructor (a supreme high master plumber whose name I don’t recall at the moment) referred to the TPR valve as “the most important mechanical safety device in the home.” I guess you could argue that definition, still it seems to me that we should always operate and comment on such an important device (where in our judgement, doing so would not cause damage to property or person). I recently read the tag that comes attached to the new ones. The manufacturer suggested testing the valve regularly and replacing when necessary.