Nice, informative,post Barry.
Here’s a pic. (maybe) to go with it. This was my most recent build job.It’s all vinyl,including posts and railings.I framed,roofed ,sided ,painted the interior and trimed it out myself.The rest was left to my subs.
Hey Cheremie, That’s a nice big house, is that for yourself or for sale?
[/size]**[size=2]Weather Resistant Barrier
**[size=2]*Vinyl siding has always been designed as an exterior cladding, not a weather resistant barrier. *[/size]*****Vinyl siding is designed to allow the material underneath it to breathe; therefore, it is not a watertight covering. ***
Because of its design and application, it provides a supplemental rain screen
that enhances the weather resistant barrier system by reducing the amount of water that reaches the underlying weather resistant barrier.
*What Is a Weather Resistant Barrier System? *
It is a system that includes water shedding materials and water diversion materials. Weather resistant barrier systems commonly consist of a combination of exterior cladding, flashed wall openings and penetrations, weather resistant barrier material, and sheathing. Effective weather resistant barrier systems will shed the water initially, control moisture flowby capillary and diffusion action, and minimize absorption into the wall structure. The level of weather resistance required is determined by the applicable building code and structure.
*Best Practice: *
To achieve designed performance, vinyl siding must be installed over a weather resistant barrier system that includes 1) a continuous weather resistant material and 2) properly integrated flashing around all penetrations and where vinyl siding interfaces with other building products such asbrick, stone, or stucco. Refer to the manufacturer’s installation manual for specific product applications and recommendations. Whichever product(s) you decide to use as part of a weather resistant barrier system, be certain the materials meet the applicable code by contacting the manufacturer of the weather resistant barrier material(s). Always consult the applicable building code for minimum weather barrier requirements in your area. Keep in mind that additional measures may provide better protection against water intrusion than the minimum requirements of the building code.
In most cases, I find the vinyl siding installed directly over the OSB. Do others find this as well?
Naw.I can’t afford and would never want a house that big ,4000sf.
I built it for someone.It’s on the windiest hill top on the planet.I work in all kinds of weather but it’s the windy days that really make me drag a$$.
Personally, all I need is a little shack and a lot of open road.
Yea, I see that sometimes too.Usually by people trying to save a buck.
Fan fold insulation is only $38-$40.00 a “bale” and covers 3 sq.The extra cost isn’t great enough to justify skimping.Although it’s R-value is ,I think,about 1 it does block wind.[/size]
Yes that’s true, but I also find it with tyvek paper, and some with Insulation behind the siding
So, are you saying there is somethig wrong with the siding I inspected today?
well gee, ida know, u might want to paint thet thar wood tho.
I have a question, Cheremie. Where the big garage roof comes down and hits the side of the big house, did you run a big valley flashing up the wall? I’m trying to imagine 2 feet of snow in that space between the house and the garage.
Cheremie, that’s a nearly identical copy of my own home. A stock, popular plan called “Riverbend”. Mind doesn’t have the garage pasted on the back, though.
Really nice work and glad to know craftspersons are still hard at it.
Are those aliens above the garage?
FYI: 9850 Aberdeen, O.P. KS, Nallwood J.H., S.M. South, back in the mid '60s
You can’t tell from the pic , but the garage roof doesn’t actually run into the side wall.
The 4/12 porch roof goes around the corner (in shadow) and further back about six feet.The 12/12 garage roof and the porch roof actually meet about three feet ,at the narrowest point,from the wall.
Even still, I did pay special attention in that area because snow and rain is a big concern in areas such as that.
That particular valley was fitted with 24" galvanized valley flashing,(12"on each side of the bend).
The wall in that corner was flashed and counter flashed(step flashing).The step flashing alone probably would have been enough but generally I like my projects to be the best I know they can be.
I don’t recall the plan name.My client did buy it from a book but had it modified by an architect to fit their needs.
At one time Variform ,the siding manufacturer, wanted to use it as a brochure “cover home”.The home owner did not want to give permission for that so it never happened.
What’s OSB? :mrgreen: YES, is there another method?
Around here they just nail it onto whatever the rotten and degraded materials were initially.
Not aliens.Something on my scanner.
Not native to KS. A rural Missouri girl at heart.Although I must say when I’m finished building I’ll probably move to someplace treed and hilly and build guitars for a living.I only build 4-5 a year right now.
Oh No! Thread drift…Vinyl siding,vinyl siding,vinyl siding.Wait ,I don’t really like vinyl siding.The alternative for this house would have been too expensive.
In your experience with new construction vinyl, do you hold the siding up off the roof shingles, say along the sides of the dormers, by any set distance? How much height of continuous step flashing should I be able to see with my binoculars?
I like to nail my “J” (also called receiving channel) 1 -1 1/2" off of the roof.
In areas that I feel will hold more snow for long periods of time I will also run a 16" w. piece of 15# felt over the step flashing (but high enough to be out of sight)and then install the fan fold then the “J” channel.
The felt is not a required installation method .I just think it ads some extra protection,especially when melting snow refreezes and expands.
Hope I’ve answered your question and then some.
I judge that to be the only correct answer. Glad to hear it. And if I’m not mistaken you about talking about a 1 1/2" exposure on a 2" turned up leg?
Right? Standard prebent alum. step flashing?
All the time I see new construction where the step flashing going up the long rake walls on big box houses is not visible at all. The sider has nailed his J channel after laying it flat on the roofer’s shingles. I call it out every time.
So often here you see house wraps on all but the attic gable ends. If the vinyl mfg. says his product relies on the usage of a water barrier beneath his siding, and none is present on these surfaces, it would void any mfg. warranty, i presume.
What’s your experience?
In instances where I go up to 1 1/2" I cut my own flashing “shingles” to go up the wall 3".In addition to that , when I black in my roof I continue the felt up the wall about 12" being careful not to poke a hole in the crease where roof and wall converge.I never buy the pre bent flashing.The guage is too thin to suit me.I buy the galvanized type in a 50 ct. bundle.It just feels more substantial.
I try to do everything I think to be right to avoid unnecessary call backs.
As always ,time will tell if it isn’t right but I’ve never had a problem with this method…knock on wood.
Ya know, all the installer has to do is take a 1X spacer and lay it on the roof,set the “J” on top,nail the “J” and remove the spacer.No extra time involved.There’s no excuse for not doing it unless the installer simply didn’t know.You might expect that from a diy’er.
If the manufacturer say’s barrier then it should be done to keep the warranty