I have always used the 60 to 80 PSI rule for water pressure, even though I know we are not required to numerical check it. However, If I have low water pressure throughout the house, I check it with a pressure gauge. The local water company says the pressure should be between 40 and 60 PSI. That sounds low to me. Again I have always heard 60 to 80 PSI. Comments?
Phil
40 to 80 psi has always been the range for me.
60 is pretty high for the minimum. I think pressure regulators come factory set around 50-55. I am with Larry, 40-80 as well as any observations.
I agree with @lkage and @bcawhern1 that 80 PSI is or at least should be the high end for residential water pressure.
Side note: I see some pressure readings performed at hose bibs. In my Georgia area, the exterior hose bib is often branched out before the pressure regulator, notably in older homes. Resulting in reading the city pressure vs the home’s distribution pressure.
The PRV should always be installed right after the water main shut off. If it branches off to the hose bibs first, how do you kill the water to the hose bib if work needs to be done?
In Georgia they need to keep that water running at all times or the stills might explode from overheating.
Of course I’m sure he means between the main shut-off and PRV.
What’s your water source? Private well? Municipal Watertower? Municipal Reservoir?
In Rural Minnesota small towns, we are mostly on Municipal water tower systems.
Regardless of the town I am inspecting in/near, I always get static pressure readings between 43-65m psi.
On a very rare occasion, I see one in the mid-thirties, and even more rarely above 65 psi.
Agreed. That’s why I mention it. If an inspector assumes the PRV is before the hose bib, they can get burned in my area (generally older homes)
Cut it at the street/meter shut-off valve.
FWIW, after years of measuring water pressure and burning through several gauges a year doing it, I now treat flow as what is important. If there is adequate flow with multiple fixtures on, then good and I move on. On the rare occasions that the water blast from a tub faucet peels the skin off my hand, I’ll measure pressure.
To your question, most of our municipalities say their target pressure is 60-80psi. In practice, I’ve seen houses with great flow at 45psi and mediocre flow with multiple fixtures on at 120psi.
My basement toilet came off the main BEFORE the main shut off. Had to use the curb stop to replace the toilet and service valve. Half the time the service valve doesn’t work anyway. It is certainly not meant to be exercised constantly as I see so many tenants doing because they fail to notify about the run-on toilet.
Some of the municipalities here have been replacing their water meter box covers with special locking covers. They are doing it for all ages of homes. Very sad since many new homes the line passes under the garage to a rear garage wall against a conditioned are. They can’t even get in to use the meter for leak testing.
“AI Overview
The plumbing code standard for residential water pressure is a maximum of 80 psi, regulated by the International Plumbing Code (IPC) and International Residential Code (IRC). If static pressure exceeds 80 psi, a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) compliant with ASSE 1003 must be installed to reduce pressure to 80 psi or lower. “
I have used 40 as the minimum for years although not much you can do about it if the municipal supply has a lower pressure. I have seen as low as 35 and as high as 125. Our state requires we report both the static pressure and deficiencies in functional flow.
After reading through this thread I had to check my water pressure. I seemed to remember that it was in excess of 90 PSI when I bought the house several years ago. There is no PRV at all. This hose bib is about 10’ from the 1" water main. Yes about 92 PSI.
Agreed. The other hose bibs will usually be at the expected range.
Your local water company is correct and they are the jurisdiction having authority. I never concern myself with water pressure unless it seems too high. I’m more concerned with water volume at the fixtures.
My Area: Municipal Static water pressure can very. Usually well above 80psi. I have seen at or above 140 psi. Pressure reducing valve/regulators are very important. Most All Water Pressure Regulators (common local terminology) can be adjusted 25-75 psi (stamp on label). Yes, 40-80psi is what is considered normal range (interNachi taught me). However if above 75 psi (the upper limit of adjustment) The regulator may be bad. I also check by attaching the gauge, and then turning on the valve. Many times I will see it well above 80psi, bleed it off and it will go down into the normal range but may slowly rise again (may even take several minutes), meaning water is getting past a (defective) regulator. (I have a canned statement explaining this “slow rise” as I have had a plumber say the pressure was within normal range. Found out he turned on the water and then put the gauge on…didn’t see that it took a minute or two for pressure to rise). A defective thermal expansion tank can also give you an initial high reading. (check if full of water)
Some HOAs (homes not individually metered) will usually be set (at the source) at about 60ish psi. However if the homes are at different elevations the pressure can very substantially.
Another tip for especially New Inspectors: You may seem to get a very high reading off of some no-freeze hose bibs as the pressure reading will rise way up as you manipulate the valve to the full on position. As the valve moves out it acts as a sealed cylinder and piston. I usually find this on very new valves on new construction. Loosen your gauge and let the pressure bleed off to get an accurate reading.
The normal water pressure range for a house is 40 to 80 psi (pounds per square inch). The ideal pressure for optimal performance and protection of plumbing fixtures is generally considered to be around 50 to 70 psi. Pressures over 80 psi are too high and can cause damage
I go 40 to 80 as the normal range and write up anything outside of that. I didn’t test for years but finally got a gauge and am amazed at how many houses are over….. some way over. Had a 120 reading this week.
Most houses, when I used to test them all, were over 80psi and closer to 100psi was common…and all working just fine. I quit testing as I explain above.
