What kind of tile is this?

I have never encountered this kind of tile. Does anyone know what this is, and if this is durable compared to normal ceramic tile in a shower?

Looks like an Italian Porcelain tile that was in a recent inspection. Good product. Reasonably priced and durable.

Thanks, that’s what my wife said when she saw something like it on HGTV today. “listen to you wife”…sometimes

I greatly appreciate it.

Leon one mistake some tile contractors or installer employees have made is grouting the corners. It should have a sealed bead of silicon the same color in the corners. When the grout cracks in the corner if done like the rest of grouted areas then you will have water penetration behind the Porcelain tile.

Thanks. Looks like this did not have that silicone bead. Greatly appreciate it again.

Kevin, I have never heard of or seen even one installation of shower wall tile with sealant in the corners in Port St. Lucie, FL.

Are you saying that is the normal practice in your area?

Looks like an ordinary ceramic tile to me.

Yes it is normal practice among Professional Installers here. If it is not done then the corners crack in the first year. But it is easy to repair as all you need to do is do it after it starts.

How to Install Bathroom Tile in Corners

 	 		 			 		 	 	by Tim Anderson, Demand Media  
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                                     [http://homeguides.sfgate.com/DM-Resize/photos.demandstudios.com/getty/article/251/4/86483328_XS.jpg?w=300&h=300&keep_ratio=1](http://homeguides.sfgate.com/DM-Resize/photos.demandstudios.com/getty/article/251/4/86483328.jpg?w=600&h=600&keep_ratio=1)                              Tile wraps happen in every inside corner of a shower.
                                                        Bathrooms, being wet areas that need frequent cleaning, are  typically finished with ceramic tile and natural stones because of their  durability against water. And while the tiles placed in the corners are  installed using the same process as field tiles, there are some  aesthetic differences that can change the exact method slightly.  Ultimately, the choice depends on layout and the preferences of the  designer.
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	The finish installation catches the naked eye and would ideally be  finished in an appealing manner. A common tip for hiding any  imperfections in the wall is to bury the wall cuts on the back wall, so  that when you stand in front of the shower you only see a continuous  band of tile that wraps around. The side walls butt up against the back  wall, and the cuts are made going up the side walls, so the cuts are  only visible when standing in the shower facing toward or away from the  side walls.


	There are two ways to cut bathroom tiles into a corner: with a tile  wet saw or a cutting board. However, cutting boards only work for  man-made tiles; all natural stones must be cut on a wet saw. If you are  using a wet saw, remember to completely dry off the backs of each piece  with a towel after you make the cuts, because the water will impede the  bond of the thinset mortar or mastic adhesive on the wall. Stack from  the bottom up, and cut around any soap shelves so that they are locked  into the wall tile, not installed on the surface.


	Installation of corner tiles is the same as it is for wall tiles.  As you work your way up from the bottom you smear your thinset onto the  wall with a notched trowel depending on the size of your tile (check the  side of your mastic bucket or thinset bag for exact recommendations.  3/8-inch notches are common for 12-inch tiles, with smaller and larger  tiles needing smaller and larger notches accordingly) and press each  tile into the mortar or adhesive. Tile spacers and wedges are used to  keep the tiles evenly spaced.

 		**Gaps and Caulking**

	**A common mistake people often make is to run their cuts tight  against the opposite wall or to put grout into the joint where the two  walls meet. Both of these mistakes will lead to grout cracking out or  tiles popping off the wall. Leave at least a 1/8-inch gap between any  transition points of wall to wall, and caulk it with silicone or acrylic  color-matching caulk. This will allow for seasonal movement of the home  without buckling or damaging the installation.**

Interesting new to me thanks Kevin

I did a blog article on this that I never made public a few years back but here is an excerpt from one of my sources.

It makes total sense.
Think about where you usually see the mold forming and any cracking at a tub/shower area.


A seam is where a tile wall meets another wall, tiles meet the tub, tiles meet the floor, or any wall adjacent to the tiled surface. Expansion and contraction of your walls and floor place stress on seams causing grout to crack.

Standard Procedure for most Tile Setters that I have encounter. :slight_smile:

Yes even more important in big Commercial buildings including no shower unit areas. Main reason is the expansion and possible buckling.

Thanks for the info Kevin. I learned the hard way while doing bathrooms in Fort Meyers. I see it all the time nowadays in new construction in my area.

That is why there is not a single Home Inspector that should not be on this MB. Many things are explained in great detail and it is free!:mrgreen:

Never seen it before. Looks custom or imported.

Charlotte Home Inspections

I can’t believe that some tile installers don’t bring the finished edge to the outside of the wall and install a corner edge. In installing this way the wall (all the way to the edge) the drywall is covered all the way to the floor, so beyond the tub skirt.

I see most water penetration issues, when they leave the drywall exposed and don’t bring the tile to the edge and down to the floor. This is the case in this picture.

YES you are correct and every apartment I inspect has the same problem.

The way I see it, is that they stopped short of the mirror and I can’t relate to where the tub and and tile is, because I don’t see it. No corner that I see.

Am I missing something?

I do agree with what you said, but don’t see that situation here. :slight_smile: