Wind Mitigation Question

Ive inspected a home built in 1974. After Hurricane Charlie, in 2006, the home was taken to studs, rebuilt and added on to. 1. Building code… does that fit B. with a permit application date or C.

Todd in my opinion you must mark C for question #1 building code since it asks what code was used to “design and build the structure”. Just refers to when the structure was originally built. Hope this helps and hope all is well my friend.

Well since the form is geared towards “weakest” and least favorable I have to agree. However half the home is new in that it was designed and built in 2006 and added on to a 1974 build structure.
Great to hear from you Paul.

Not to muddy the water here but what happens if a 40yo home is destroyed by something, fire or whatever, 49% of the structure is removed and a “new” home is rebuilt. a, b, or c
How about if 51% of the home is destroyed and same thing.
Is there a time when a complete remodel/rebuild resets the clock on the construction date or is it always tagged to the original construction date?

Go by the property appraiser. They will go by the certificate of occupancy. That is the official date…Anything else does not apply. There is a difference between remodel/renovation, and a demolition and new construction.

If the homeowners can get the property appraiser to change the year built, then you can use the new date.

We see the year of construction and the effective year built in some county systems. The underwriter is asking for the actual year built.

Sometimes clients are able to get a change in the year built after a major renovation.

Falls to level of reconstruction there are code requirements that over a prescribed value the entire structure is required to be brought to the code at the time of construction. That doesn’t mean the local AHJ will be diligent in determining it is.

I wouldn’t sign off saying it was unless they had.

Thanks Jay, that makes sence.

Brian is correct, usually the building department could determine that. some even have an effective building date now because of this.

The reason why is that it costs waaay more on those rebuilds to pull a total demo and new construction permit vs a remodel. On the new construction you get hit with higher permit fees, impact fees, etc. Whereas doing it via a remodel you dont get any of that, however, the year built will not get updated on the property card even if its razed to the ground and rebuilt when pulling it as a remodel. Unfortunately for the homeowner they will not get the built to code discount on the form as you cannot mark it on the form if the property card does not show the correct actual year built.

Exactly, impact fees can be huge. :slight_smile:

Great advice. I marked C and sent it on.
Too bad as the entire home was updated.