Wire nuts?

When are wires too big for wire nuts?

When they exceed the listing of the wire nut. Most all manufactures will list how many wires of specific size can be used on the different size wirenuts.

This is why they make many size wirenuts.

Good point, Paul. Always follow the manufactures sizing requirements. I typically, in newer homes run into tans and greys. They are easy to remember how many conductors they can connect together.

However, if I run across wire nuts that I don’t know about off the top of my head, I look at how it’s put together. Is there any visible metal? Do the wires look like they are about to pop out? Is the wire nut deformed, discolored, an indication of a possible overheating? In an inspection, the only wire nuts I run across are those in a panel, typically used to extend short wires so only 2 wires, and ones not in boxes, an automatic flag. So without looking up specs, and gauging all the wires, you can hopefully identify wire nuts over stuffed.



lol…also if you are doing new inspections, on some overloaded wire nuts you simply tug on them and they come apart which is a good sign it is not sized properly.

I have a wirenut guide somewhere…believe it or not and if I find it I will post it.


If I’m doing “work” on an electrical system, I’ll get my hands in their and I’ve found many wires not properly connected this way. However, in an inspection, where no work is to be done, I do not tug at wires or nuts. My wire and nut tugging fees are a little higher. :wink:


lol…amazing enough I get some inspections on new constuction where they did not hire me as the electrician. I inspect the work for compliance and checking in boxes and so on…i tug here and there…:slight_smile:

Way too much information, and I hope you bring wet wipes too.


lololool…you are a trip Tom…lol

Disclaimer- If the LOL’s offend anyone please understand it is MY life and I choose to type any way I would like. Lol’s are harmless, would it be better to spend the BASHERS time on world peace and world hunger versus bashing me over LOL’s and TEEHEHEEHEH’s

Does it have a picture of the first .
I think they where made out of porcelain and very strong .
Have not seen one in years .

I see they still make them ( Added later )
Roy Cooke


I was talking about a Wirenut Guide from a manufacturer on paper, I used to have one on a slide when I was teaching residential wiring in the apprentice program.

Ahhh…you are talking Porcelain guides…man you are DATING yourself their fella…:wink:

Here is a link to all of them basically…if anyone wants it


The links at the bottom will take you to the various styles and so on.





Personally…I miss the days when me and my brother would Solder all our joints…ahhh…those were the days.

In the house we are wiring right now I was going to solder the joints…but I will on the next one as it gets kinda slow in the winter for us.

Thanks for all the advise but I need to paint a clearer picture.

The meter can has been moved to a different wall due to build out.
At the old spot there is a box with wire nuts continuing all circuits to new panel.
My question is do you allow #6 aluminum or # 5 copper to be twisted under a blue wire nut?
What is the biggest size conductor to use wire nuts on before going to split bolts?
I also kicked another house for the neutral feeding a 100 amp sub panel being under a blue wire nut.


Flag that bad boy. Copper and AL under an unapproved wirenut is a serious problem. Without going into sizes, the application of the wrong connector is enough to ‘defer to a qualified electrician for evaluation’.



OK…yeah major clarrification was needed here as I think we all just through you were asking about wirenuts in general…:frowning:

Yes, many LARGER blue wirenuts ( see my images above -3rd one ) will allow (2) # 6 Conductors to be spliced using BLUE connector. Ah I doubt you are looking at a # 5 AWG Copper…probably a # 8 which is also fine.

Usually you are looking at (2) # 6 being the largest wirenut I am aware of but again could be otherwise…but I have never used one on anything larger than # 6.

Wire nuts are limited again by the manufacturer , split bolts ( insulated or propertly wrapped ) can range in all sizes so thats not a easy question to answer.

But if you want an OPINION…anything larger than # 6 AWG having more than (2) conductors in it I would defer…as you did on the 100A panel grounded conductor.

again those are MY opinions and not gospel, If you are talking about a CU to AL connection…flag it and let the EC determine if that is an approved connection…

Just for reference…here is what a Ideal AL/CU Wire Nut looks like and it is purple of all colors…

They have special compounds within the wirenut to counteract the issue of dissimilar conductors BUT who knows as I have never used any.


Just to follow up a good post, don’t be tricked by just seeing PURPLE wire nuts, there are non-correct plain purples out there. Try and identify that they are the proper ones for AL/Copper connections. Also, these are only approved for up to #10 connections.


lol…For that I give you a GREEN box…:slight_smile: Same Greenie for the Royster…:slight_smile:

Actually you will tell if its a AL/CU because the bottom of the wirenut will be closed up kinda…not open like a normal wire nut.

I try not to do much work with Purple Wire nuts…I like to keep it MANLY Gray or Red :slight_smile:

Take a 3/4 steel coupling and put in a plumbers pipe plug in the bottom 1/4 way down from the top drill a 1/4 hole part way through and do the same 180 degrees exactly on the opposite side .
Take an old metal handled fly swatter and remove the rubber from the metal .
Spread the open ends out and put a 90 degree bend just in from the end towards each other .
Put the coupling holes into the end of the fly swatter handle .
Fill with solder and you now haw a self leveling solder pot.
Get a metal oil can and a small brush cut the brush handle down to about two inches and put some glyptol on the handle and insert into the inside part of the oil tube .
Fill the oil can with glyptol you now have your very own home made paint pot.
Do not kick it over with out the top on ,makes a big mess.
Glyptol and a plastic bag you can have your very own trip and never even leave the house.
A bit of cambric tape and glyptol you can make a connection never to come apart . Blow torch and white gas you are in business.
Did you ever see the arrangement for drilling rafter by hand .
It was on a try pod and it had a bicycle sprocket and chain that went up to another sprocket at the top with a wood bit sticking sideways.
This folded up and how you regulated the height was to go an an angle depending on the height . Straight up was the highest,.


all I can say is…" THANK GOD" for modern inventions…:slight_smile: