Well, now they have a good reason to be nervous. It needs correction. You are doing them a favor. Write hard and save a life.
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Okay, since we are shredding this thing. What’s this? A two piece band? Oh, and the over-notched guard was likely loose as a goose.
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oy, yea. well, that arrow is pointing at a veneer over the band. I guess it was overnothced so it still had some bearing?
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That post is only as strong as the most thin part of the notch. It is no longer a 4x4, but rather a 1x4. That is likely an old deck with new deck boards.
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thanks a lot!
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Back to your stucco question. Here is where your opportunity lies…look up under there, if you see or feel Styrofoam with a thin coating it’s EIFS. If it is solid and you can see or feel a metal lathe…it is hard coat. Combine this with the knock test, and you will have a positive identification. Often, the accent pieces around windows, quoins, etc. is EIFS atop stucco so don’t be fooled.
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interesting point I just found on the subject; a lot depends on the slope of grain:
According to the grading rules for lumber, a piece of 4x4 No. 2 southern pine can have a “slope of grain” of up to 1:8 (or 1 inch in 8 inches). If a 4x4 with a slope of grain of 1:8 is notched 1.75 inches deep, a crack propagated along the grain will reduce the 1.75-inch-thick section at the notch to only 3/4 inch at 8 inches above the corner of the notch — not something you’d want to bet your life on.
https://www.jlconline.com/deck-builder/railing-connections-and-500-pound-loads-notching-posts-lab-testing-rail-posts_o
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Cool article, a lot has transpired in 15 years. Notching posts no longer allowed in my area (for many years). Post must also be thru bolted with tie down anchors and blocking.
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This is such a great point that is worth repeating. Architects and builders love the contoured/shaped lines around windows but those lines can’t be accomplished with true (heavy) cement-based stucco so they use the lighter synthetic (EIFS) material. As an inspector it’s great to know this and know the difference - great so we don’t misclassify an entire house and also a good talking point so we appear educated about what we are looking at and talking about.
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“Z” flashing is required - protects the ledger board (which should be pressure-treated lumber), as well as rim joist.
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In my area that tigerwooddecking method of attaching the ledger wouldn’t fly. Generally the stucco is removed and the ledger is attached directly to the rim joist of the house with flashing above and in a perfect world below the ledger as well. Unless they have the correct stand-off fasteners for attaching over stucco, this is the best way. Fasteners wont support indended loads when stepped off the rim joist by the distance of the stucco.
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The ledger board requires flashing the same as the ledger board requires flashing on concrete foundations.
Are you sure there is just 1 ledger board and it is not doubled up and properly secured to a timber framed assembly’s band joist?
Simson Strong-Tie joist hanger. Just under to the left appears to be a knot in lumber.
I concur with fasteners.
You have any images further back please.
thats roughly why i was hesitant and decided to ask. i figured there may be some kind of technique im unaware of. But i cannot confirm, so…
There are window trim details for masonry stucco applications. What is an indication that the assembly is stucco, the expansion joint directly above the band joist and ledger board. Almost inline with the balcony decking.
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I don’t see any flashing…so it must not be there…and it should be…a good flashing job should be over the stucco, under the rim board and over the rim board and the other flashing…layered shingle style…I guess they forgot…
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Just stumbled upon this article. Bad balcony collapse in Berkeley in 2015 due to an un-flashed ledger board that grew fungus
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That’s the simple fact of the matter with this assembly.
I hope he wrote hard.
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they know all about it!
I see this all te time. The missed the first bolt and got it on the second one. Or did they?..
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